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AVANTURA & KULTURA / ADVENTURE & CULTURE • GASTRO VIKEND / CULINARY WEEKEND • PUTOVANJE ZA DUŠU / JOURNEY FOR THE SOUL • DAN ZA ŠOPING / DAY FOR SHOPPING • U GOSTIMA KOD KOMŠIJA / VISITING NEIGHBOURS GODINA USPEHA Š E S T SIX YEARS OF SUCCESS VAŠ PRIMERAK - YOUR COPY TO KEEP ISSN 2466-4073 - oktobar 2019. / October 2019

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| 5 . OKTOBAR Iskreno vaša, Er Srbija Yours sincerely, Air Serbia Dragi putnici, Već šest godina pod imenom Er Srbija spajamo ljude i gradove. Međutim, u tih šest godina utkano je mnogo više, jer smo pod nekoliko drugih imena prethodno leteli od 1927. godine, zbog čega smo upisani u listu najstarijih svetskih kompanija na osmo mesto. Ponosni na naše nasleđe, na zemlju za koju letimo više od devet decenija, na svakog zaposlenog koji je utkao deo svog znanja kako bismo ponosno osvajali svetsko nebo, radosno dočekujemo ovaj oktobar. Mesec u kom priroda oboji svaki kutak zlatnim nijansama jeste i mesec kada je 2013. godine poleteo naš prvi avion ukrašen stilizovanim dvoglavim orlom. „Jednom kada probaš leteti, hodaćeš zemljom sa očima okrenutim ka nebu, zato što si gore bio i zato što se gore želiš vratiti“. Ovo je citat Leonarda da Vinčija koji naše kolege često koriste objašnjavajući zašto vole da rade u avio-industriji. Naše oči i misli stalno su uprte ka nebu. Uvek spremni i nestrpljivi da uzletimo i odvedemo vas do nekih novih kutaka planete. I dok su nam srca u oblacima, noge su čvrsto na zemlji. Sigurno koračamo utabanim stazama pažljivo planirajući svaki naredni korak kako bismo bili još bolji i pružili još više. Dok se spremamo da ugasimo šest svećica na rođendanskoj torti, ne možemo a da se ne osvrnemo i na simboliku ovog broja. Lojalnost, posvećenost, odgovornost, savesnost, idealizam i ljubav u najširem smislu te reči – sve su to osobine koje se pripisuju simbolici broja šest, a ujedno i vrednosti koje negujemo u srpskoj nacionalnoj avio-kompaniji. Broj šest predstavlja brigu o drugima, snažnu želju da se sve uradi kako treba, besprekornu pouzdanost, ljubaznost i uslužnost. Upravo to su postulati na kojima zasnivamo svoje poslovanje i pojmovi koji najbolje opisuju svakog pojedinačnog člana velike Er Srbija porodice. Obećavamo da ćemo nastaviti da rastemo zajedno sa vama. Obećavamo da ćemo sa podjednakim žarom, entuzijazmom i predanošću nastaviti da obavljamo posao koji predstavlja ogromnu odgovornost, ali i još veću privilegiju. Kažu da ne treba brojati godine, već učiniti da se godine broje. Želimo i vama i nama još mnogo srećnih i uspešnih godina! Uživajte u letu i srećan put. Dok se spremamo da ugasimo šest svećica na rođendanskoj torti, nemožemo a da se ne osvrnemo i na simboliku ovog broja Dear passengers, OCTOBER We’ve nowbeen connectingpeople and cities under the name of Air Serbia for six years. However, amuch longer time is ingrained into those six years, given that we’ve own as a national carrier under several other names since 1927, ensuring we rank in eighth place on the list of the world’s oldest surviving companies. We are proud of our heritage, of the country whose national carrierwe’vebeenformorethanninedecades, of everyemployeewhocontributed their share of expertise so that we can proudly conquer the international skiesandhappilywelcomethisOctober.Themonthduringwhichnaturepaints every corner with golden tones is also themonthwhen, back in 2013, our rst Air Serbia plane took to the skies, decoratedwith a stylised two-headedeagle. “Once you have tasted ight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return”~ this Leonardo da Vinci quote is often cited by our colleagues when explaining why they love working in the aviation industry. Our eyes and minds are constantly turned skywards; always readyandwaiting impatiently to take ight and lead you to new corners of the planet. And while our hearts are in the clouds, our feet are rmly on the ground. We walk rmly on paved paths, carefully planning every next move so that we can be even better and o er evenmore. As we prepare to blow out six candles on our birthdaycake,wecan’t helpbut lookat the symbolicvalueof thisnumber. Loyalty, dedication, responsibility,mindfulness, idealism and love in the broadest sense of the word – these are all characteristics attributed to the symbolismof the number six, and at the same time are the values nurtured by us at the Serbian national carrier. The number six represents care for others, a strong desire to do everything right, perfect reliability, kindness and politeness. These are the postulates on which we base our operations and the terms that best describe every individual member of the great Air Serbia family. We promise that we will continue growing together with you. We promise that we will continue to do work that represents great responsibility, but alsoanevengreater privilege, withequal passion, enthusiasmanddedication. They say that one should not count the years, but rather have many of them to be counted. We wish you and us many more happy and successful years! Enjoy your ight and have a nice trip. Asweprepare toblowout six candlesonour birthdaycake,we can’t helpbut look at thesymbolic valueof this number

Sadržaj/Inside Naslovna strana /Cover photo: iStock Er Srbija Air Serbia Ljudi People Er Srbija napunila šest godina Air Serbia turns six 24 Niška tvrđava Moćni svedok istorije Niš Fortress Powerful witness of history and time 94 Manji ko Da nije reditelj i glumac, Bjela bi bio o cir I If hehadn’t become a director and actor, Bjela wouldbe ano cer 64 BanjaKoviljača: Mesto u komsu se lečili kraljevi BanjaKoviljača: wherekings came for treatment 90 Er Srbija obradovala 250.000putnika Air Serbiadelights 250,000passengers 26 The inflight magazine of Air Serbia 8 | Jedan i po vekTrga republike Century and a half of Republic Square 102 Intervju / Interview Voja Brajović Predrag Mitić 58 Modna biblija kaže: Buržoazija nosi ležerno The fashionbible says: Bourgeoisiedresses casually Beograđani iz kamere SvenaMarkuardta Belgraders fromSven Marquardt’s camera 48 30 Srbija Serbia Moda Fashion

Sadržaj/Inside Putujte pametno Travel smart Er Srbija u fokusu / Air Serbia close up Nasmešite se, stiže Džoker Smile, the Joker’s arriving 38 68 75 78 80 UkućiPegiGugenhajm In theHouseof Peggy Guggenheim PronađiteHamleta FindHamlet 72 Gastro-vikend: Beč, Rim, Moskva Culinaryweekend: Vienna, Rome,Moscow Počele pripreme za zimsku sezonu 2019/20. Preparations underway for 2019/2020 winter season Čarterletovi do početka novembra Charter ights until the beginning of November Još jedan rekordan mesec niškog aerodroma Yet another record month for Niš Airport 3 pitanja za Nenada Mitića, kapetana Three questions for Captain Nenad Mitić 110―129 Profimedia.rs 70 Putovanjezadušu: Madrid Journey for the soul: Madrid Danušopingu:Milano Day for shopping:Milan Nepropustiteu Londonuovogoktobra Not tobemissed in London thisOctober

10 | Godina izlaženja / Anoo XLIII Broj / Issue No. 310 Naslovna strana / Cover iStock The inflight magazine of Air Serbia Saradnici NikolaOlić je fotograf poreklom iz Beograda. Mada već dugo živi u Americi, fotografiše na raznim lokacijama širom sveta svojim vernim jeftinim Nikon aparatom. Sa putovanjima je davno počeo kao dete jatovaca, otac mu je bio pilot na B-707, a majka stjuardesa. Za Elevejt je izabrao jednu od svojih najinteresantnijih fotografija, uz kratak opis i komentar. Nikola Olić is a photographer who was born and raised in Belgrade. Although he’s been living in the U.S. for a long time, he engages in photography all over the world, with his trusty cheap Nikon camera. He began travelling long ago, as a child of Air Serbia’s predecessor JAT – his father was a B-707 pilot and his mother was a flight attendant. He selected one of his most popular photographs to share with us for this issue of Elevate. Jasminka Luković Jagličić rođena je Kragujevčanka koja je završila Mašinski fakultet u Kragujevcu i stekla zvanje diplomiranog inženjera mašinstva, ali su joj i duša i srce uvek bili uz prirodu i na strani prirode. Nije zato čudo što se nalazi na mestu direktora Prirodnjačkog centra Svilajnac, o kom tako nadahnuto govori u ovom broju, da ćete sigurno poželeti da ga posetite. Jasminka Luković Jagličić is a native of Kragujevac who graduated from the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering in her home city as a mechanical engineer, but her heart and soul have always been with nature and on the side of nature. No wonder, then, that she finds herself in the position of director of the Natural History Centre of Serbia, which she speaks about with such enthusiasm in this issue that you will definitely want to visit it. Materijali objavljeni u ovom izdanju vlasništvo su izdavača ili Er Srbije i ne mogu se reprodukovati bez pisanog odobrenja izdavača. Stavovi izneti u tekstovima su stavovi autora i ne mogu se dovoditi u vezu sa Er Srbijom ili izdavačem. Izdavač i Er Srbija odriču se odgovornost za sadržaj oglasa. All material is copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors and cannot be related to Air Serbia. Air Serbia does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Air Serbia Review - besplatno na svim letovima Er Srbije / Air Serbia Review - free of charge on all Air Serbia flights / CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека Србије, Београд • 659 • ELEVATE : the inflight magazine of Air Serbia / glavni i odgovorni urednik Jelena Isaković. - 2014 (avg.)- . - Beograd : Ringier Axel Springer Srbija, 2014 - (Subotica : Rotografika). - 27 cm • Mesečno. - Tekst uporedo na srp. i engl. jeziku. - Je nastavak: Air Serbia Review • ISSN 2466-4073 • Elevate (Beograd) • COBISS.SR-ID 222113804 • Copyright 2013 © Air Serbia All rights reserved Glavna i odgovorna urednica / Editor in chief Jelena Isaković Izvršna urednica / Executive Editor Jelena Pantović Urednički odbor Er Srbije / Air Serbia Editorial Committee NikolaVukomanović, Arsen Rudan Šef tehničke redakcije/ Chief of the design and layout team Zoran Stojković Tehnički urednik/ Design and layout editor AleksaVasović Dizajn i lejaut / Design and layout BrankoMitrović, Gabrijela Čonkić Urednik fotogra je / Photo Editor VladislavMitić Fotogra je / Photography Vesna Lalić, Dalibor Danilović, PredragMitić, Nikola Olić, Matjaž Rušt, Mia Novakova, Jelena Janković, NatalijaMiladinović, SvenMarkuardt, Hardu Paetke, Katarina Ćirković, MarkoOcepek, Tomo Brejc, Boris Njegrić Foto agencije / Photo agencies Pro media, iStock Lektori / Copy editing Bojana Đurić, Nebojša Nestorović Prevodna engleski / Translation to English Mark Pullen Lektor za engleski / English Copy Editing Mark Pullen Oglašavanje / Advertising Media Impact Srbija Snežana Stojsavljević, izvršni menadžer prodaje oglasnog prostora / Executive AdvertisingManager snezana.stojsavljevic@mediaimpact.rs, elevate@mediaimpact.rs Izdavač / Publisher Ringier Axel Springer Srbija Žorža Klemansoa 19, 11000 Beograd elevate@ringieraxelspringer.rs Generalni direktor Ringier Axel Springer Srbija / CEO Ringier Axel Springer Serbia Jelena Drakulić Petrović Direktor izdanja / Publishing Director Sreten Radović Štampa / Print Rotogra ka Subotica Distribucija / Distribution Besplatno na svim letovima Er Srbije Free of charge on all Air Serbia ights MiodragDimitrijević Sobinac strastveni je ljubitelj sporta i (pop) kulture. Ovaj Vranjanac je u rodnomgradu završio osnovnu školu i gimnaziju, dok je u Beogradu diplomirao na Filološkom fakultetu, na grupi za srpsku književnost. Uživa u pisanju, a svrab prstiju ga je odveo do sportskog novinarstva i povremene književne kritike. U ovom broju namdonosi priču o legendarnomDžokeru. Miodrag “Sobinac” Dimitrijević is a passionate lover of sport and (pop) culture. A native of Vranje, it was there that he completed primary and high school, before graduating from the Faculty of Philology, in the Serbian Literature group. He enjoys writing, and his itchy fingers led him into sports journalism and occasional literary criticism. For this issue he brings us a story about the legendary Joker. Havijer Vakas jedan je od onih koji su krivi za duh Španije u srpskoj prestonici, jer već godinama uređuje kulturni program u Institutu Servantes u Beogradu i vodi računa o saradnji srpskih i španskih umetnika, organizacija i institucija. Ovog leta Beograd je zamenio Španijom nastavljajući da se usavršava, ali vas u Elevejtu vodi u svoj Madrid. Javier Vakas is among those who are “guilty” for the spirit of Spain being present in the Serbian capital, as he has spent years organising the cultural programme at the Cervantes Institute in Belgrade, while he takes responsibility for cooperation between Serbian and Spanish artists, organisations and institutions. This summer he swapped Belgrade for Spain, continuing his advancement, but for this issue he takes you to his native Madrid. Ovogodišnje Beogradske muzičke svečanosti održaće se od 6. do 19. oktobra u organizaciji Centra beogradskih festivala. Prema rečima Bojana Suđića, umetničkog direktora festivala, Bemus obećava niz vrhunskih muzičkih događaja koji po kvalitetu staju rame uz rame sa programima svetskih festivala te vrste. Programi 51. Bemusa održavaju se u Centru Sava, Kolarčevoj zadužbini, Kombank dvorani, Svečanoj sali Skupštine grada, Narodnom muzeju i Narodnom pozorištu. This year’s Belgrade Music Festival, BEMUS, will be held from 6th to 19th October, under the organistion of CEBEF, the Belgrade Festivals Centre. According to the festival’s artistic director, Bojan Suđić, this year’s BEMUS promises a number of top quality music events that have a quality that’s on par with the programmes of world festivals of this kind. The programme of the 51st BEMUS is being realised at the Sava Centre, Kolarac Endowment Hall, Kombank Hall, the Ceremony Hall of Belgrade City Hall, the National Museum and the National Theatre. U ovombroju / This issue’s contributors

12 | BEZ ČEGA NE ULAZITE U AVION? Ne ulazim u avion bez uzbuđenja što ću leteti. Od praktičnih stvari nosim punjač za telefon i slično, da mogu da preživim dok mi dođe kofer. Nosim i proteinske barove, bademe, često mi klopa koju dobijem ne odgovara. ZAŠTO VOLITE AVIONE? Oduševljenost avionima kod mene datira još od detinjstva. Moj omiljeni film je bio Top gan , gledao sam ga sigurno 200 puta. Skupljao sam makete aviona, sklapao ih i naravno želeo da budem pilot. Ushićenje letenjem ne prestaje, čak sam imao priliku da 1990. vozim jedan mali avion, i taj san mi se ostvario! I dalje sam fasciniran činjenicom da tako brzo stigneš na drugi kraj planete, to je čarolija koja me drži. Svaki put kad uđem u avion znam da me čeka neki potpuno drugi svet. KOJAVAMJE DESTINACIJA OSTALAU SEĆANJU? Prvo što mi padne na pamet je Bali, Indonezija, 2004. Bali je nešto najfascinantnije i najuzbudljivije što sam video u životu. Sa devojkom Danijelom sam pre godinu dana bio u Japanu. I dalje sam pod utiskom tog puta. Ispada da Daleki istok ostavlja najjači utisak na mene. Od gradova Rim po meni ima najviše atmosfere i šmeka. Ali Bali je broj jedan! ZAŠTO VOLITE BEOGRAD? To je kompleksno pitanje. Beograd volim pre svega zato što se ne da, to je jedan snažan grad. Sačuvao je svoj neodoljivi šmek i šarm, uglavnom kroz ljude koji žive u njemu. Beograd ne prestaje da me iznenađuje, nudi ogroman sadržaj, a opet je intiman i mali grad. U njemu je čak i dosada zabavna. WHATDON’TYOU BOARDAPLANEWITHOUT? I don’t board a plane without a sense of excitement that I’m about to y. Among practical items, I carry a charger for my phone and similar stu , so I can survive until my suitcase arrives. I also carry protein bars, almonds, as I often don’t like the food I receive. WHATDOYOULOVEABOUTPLANES? My enthusiasm for aeroplanes dates all theway back tomy childhood. My favourite lmwas Top Gun, which I certainly watched two hundred times. I collectedmodel planes, assembling them, and of course I wanted to become a pilot. The excitement of ying doesn’t cease, and I even had the opportunity to operate a small plane back in 1990, that dreamof mine also came true! I’mstill fascinated by the fact that you can reach the other side of the planet so quickly; that’s onemagic spell that still bindsme. I knowevery time I board a plane that a completely di erent world awaitsme. WHICHDESTINATIONHAS REMAINED INYOURMEMORIES? The rst place that comes tomind is Bali, Indonesia, 2004. Bali is one of themost fascinating and exciting places I’ve seen inmy life. I was in Japan a year agowithmy girlfriendDanijela. I’mstill impacted bymy impressions from that trip. It turned out that the Far East has the strongest impression onme.When it comes to cities, Rome is the one that has the greatest atmosphere and charm for me. But Bali is number one! WHY DOYOU LOVE BELGRADE? That’s a complicated question. I primarily love Belgrade because it doesn’t give in; it’s a strong city. It has preserved its irresistible appeal and charm, mostly through the people who live there. Belgrade never ceases to amaze me, o ering a massive range of contents despite being an intimate and small city. Even boredom is fun there. NAPUTU: SRĐANTIMAROV, GLUMAC ONTHEROAD: SRĐANTIMAROV, ACTOR GLEDAOSAM TOPGAN BAR PUTA I’VEWATCHEDTOP GUNATLEAST200TIMES Tekst/Words: Ljiljana Perović Fotografije/Photography: Vesna Lalić

TRENUTAK / FLASH London Nedelja koktela Najveći svetski festival koktela vraća se ponovo da uzdrma britansku prestonicu. Tokom Nedelje koktela, od 4. do 13. oktobra, u 250 londonskih barova služiće se najbolji kokteli po sniženim cenama, a treba samo da kupite ulaznicu od deset funti. Tokom ovog zanimljivog dešavanja moći ćete da prisustvujete i radionicama svetskih koktelmajstora, a akcenat ove godine biće na ukusnim bezalkoholnim koktelima. Organizatori žele da pokažu kako je i bez kapi alkohola moguće napraviti ukusan koktel. London Cocktail week The world’s largest cocktail festival is back to shake and stir the UK capital. During Cocktail Week, held from 4th to 13th October, 250 London bars will serve the best cocktails at discounted prices, and all you have to do is buy a £10 entrance ticket. During this interesting event you will also have an opportunity to attend workshops of world cocktail masters, while the emphasis this year will be on delicious non-alcoholic cocktails. Organisers want to show that it’s also possible to make a delicious cocktail without a drop of alcohol. Er Srbija leti 15 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za London Air Serbia flies 15 times a week from Belgrade to London Frankfurt Najveći svetski sajam knjiga Više od 500 godina Sajam knjiga u Frankfurtu je najvažniji svetski sajam knjiga koji okuplja ljubitelje pisane reči iz celog sveta. Ove godine održaće se od 16. do 20. oktobra i ugostiće više od 7.000 izlagača, a počasni gost biće Norveška, koja će predstaviti svoju bogatu književnu tradiciju. U vreme u kom caruju moderne tehnologije organizatori sajma, zajedno sa izdavačima, pokušaće da vrate knjigu ljudima, koji pod pritiskom društvenih mreža danas čitaju manje. Amsterdam Muzički događaj godine Glavna prestonica elektronske muzike tokom leta je Ibica, ali u hladnim danima ta prestižna titula pripada Amsterdamu. Savršeno vreme da posetite ovaj grad i osetite muzički ritam grada je oktobar, kad se održava Amsterdam Dance Event. Tada na svakom koraku možete čuti odličnu muziku i najbolje svetske di-džejeve, upoznati masu istomišljenika i ljubitelja elektronike, a najveći problem biće vam da izaberete žurku na koju ćete ići. Ove godine ADE se održava od 16. do 20. oktobra i na njemu vas čeka više od 1.000 dešavanja i 2.500 umetnika. Frankfurt World’s largest book fair The Frankfurt Book Fair has held the place of honour as the world’s most important book fair for more than 500 years, and today it still brings together lovers of the written word fromaround the world. Taking place this year from16th to 20th October, it will host more than 7,000 exhibitors, while the guest country of honour showcasing its rich literary tradition will be Norway. At a time whenmodern technologies reign supreme, the organisers of the fair will join forces with publishers to try to encourage a return to books among the people, who are reading less today. Amsterdam Music event of the year The island of Ibiza holds the title of the capital of electronicmusic during the summer months, but that prestigious title belongs to Amsterdamduring the time of colder days. The perfect time to visit this city and feel itsmusical rhythm is October, when the AmsterdamDance Event traditionally takes place. Then you can hear great music and sets of theworld’s best DJs at every turn, meet masses of like-minded people and lovers of electronic, while the biggest problemwill be choosingwhich parties to attend. The ADE takes place this year from 16th to 20th October, withmore than 1,000 events and 2,500 artists awaiting guests. Er Srbija leti 7 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Frankfurt Air Serbia flies 7 times a week from Belgrade to Frankfurt Er Srbija leti 10 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Amsterdam Air Serbia flies 10 times a week from Belgrade to Amsterdam iStok / Lindrik iStok / Meinzahn

18 | TRENUTAK / FLASH Madrid Tropska šuma usred grada Najzelenija železnička stanica na svetu nalazi se u Madridu i predstavlja pravu malu botaničku baštu, kao i utočište od buke i haosa na ulicama. Reč je o stanici Atoča, koja ima 7.000 biljaka, pa dok čekate brzi voz za Barselonu, možete da se prošetate između polinezijskih kokosa, kraljevskih palmi i stabala banana s Filipina. Turisti često posećuju ovu stanicu i iz čiste znatiželje, a ima i onih koji koriste ovaj tropski raj za ispijanje kafe ili čitanje knjige u tišini. Madrid Tropical forest at the heart of the city The world’s greenest train station is located inMadrid and represents a truemini botanical garden, but also a sanctuary from the noise and chaos of the streets. The station in question is Atocha Station, which has 7,000 plants, so while you await a fast train to Barcelona you can walk between Polynesian coconuts, royal palm trees and banana plants from the Philippines. Tourists often visit this station purely out of curiosity, while there are those who take advantage of this tropical paradise to drink co ee or read in tranquility. Er Srbija leti 2 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Madrid Air Serbia flies 2 times a week from Belgrade to Madrid Ljubljana Maraton za najjače Ljubljanski maraton tradicionalno privlači najviše trkača iz regiona, a razlog za to je izuzetno atraktivna trkačka ruta i podrška koju žitelji slovenačke prestonice iz godine u godinu nesebično pružaju svim trkačima. Ove godine maraton će se 24. put održati 27. oktobra. Osim maratona i polumaratona, biće tu i trke za decu i osnovce, kao i hendbajk polumaraton. Iako je u početku bio uglavnom namenjen lokalnim trkačima, maraton u Ljubljani ubrzo je prerastao u međunarodno priznato takmičenje koje nudi zdravu zabavu za sve uzraste. Berlin Najveća galerija na otvorenom Glavni grad Nemačke, Berlin, poznat je između ostalog i po čuvenom Berlinskom zidu, koji je nekad delio ne samo Nemačku na dva dela već i Evropu i čitav svet na Istok i Zapad. Upravo zbog toga tu je nastala najveća galerija na svetu na otvorenom. Jugoistočna strana grada, odnosno zid, postao je East Side Gallery i sadrži više od 100 murala koji predstavljaju mir i slobodu. Murale je oslikalo više od 100 umetnika iz 20 zemalja sveta u želji da pokažu da ovo nije samo priča Nemaca već univerzalna ljudska priča. Ljubljana Marathon for strongers The Ljubljana Marathon traditionally attracts the largest number of runners from the region, while the reason for this is the extremely attractive race route and the support that residents of the Slovenian capital sel essly provide to all runners year after year. This year’s 24th Ljubljana Marathon will be held on 27th October. In addition to themarathon and half marathon events, there will be races for secondary and primary school children, as well as a handbike half marathon. Although initially intended primarily for local runners, the Ljubljana Marathon soon grew into an internationally recognised competition that o ers healthy fun for all ages. Berlin Largest open-air gallery The German capital is known, among other things, for the famous BerlinWall, which once divided not only Germany into two East andWest parts, but also Europe and the whole world. It is for this reason that the largest open-air gallery in the world has been created here. The southeast side of the city, or the wall, has become the East Side Gallery, containing over a hundred murals that represent peace and freedom. Themurals were painted bymore than a hundred artists from20 countries around the world, with the aimof showing that this is not just a German story, but a universal human story. Er Srbija leti 12 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Ljubljanu Air Serbia flies 12 times a week from Belgrade to Ljubljana Er Srbija leti 7 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Berlin Air Serbia flies 7 times a week from Belgrade to Berlin

20 | Scena / The scene

| 21 PTICAU OGLEDALU U samom centru Dalasa, u Teksasu, mesto za nov gradski park izniklo je kao iz čarobnog šešira – niotkuda. Jedan bučan auto-put su poklopili i na poklopac stavili park i mnogo zelenila. Američki gradovi sve više žude za trgovima i javnim mestima, pa je park brzo postao kulturni, socijalni i muzički centar, situiran oko bine koja sa donje strane nadstrešnice ima gomilu ogledala, zelenih zbog okolnog drveća koje se u njemu ogleda. Baš kao iz nekog mađioničarskog šešira, ovaj golub se našao na pravom mestu u pravo vreme, da u centru Dalasa uživa u ko zna čemu. BIRD IN THE MIRROR In the very heart of Dallas, Texas, the site of a new city park emerged as if from a magician’s hat - out of nowhere. One noisy highway has been covered and topped with a park lled with greenery. U.S. cities are increasingly crying out for public squares and places, which is why this park has quickly become a centre of culture, socialising and music, revolving around a central stage with an abundance of mirrors attached to the underside of its awning, which creates a green scene due to the re ections of surrounding trees. As if emerging from a magician’s hat, this pigeon found itself in the right place at the right time, to enjoy who knows what in downtown Dallas. Tekst i fotografije / Article and Photography: Nikola Olić

22 | / THISMONTH IN BELGRADE… OVOGMESECA UBEOGRADU… TREĆA CGA BELGRADE KONFERENCIJA . I . NOVEMBRA Beograd postaje epicentar kompjuterske grafike, vizuelnih efekata, animacije i digitalne umetnosti u okviru CGA Belgrade konferencije, koju treću godinu zaredom organizuju Srpska filmska asocijacija, Crater VFX trening centar i Portal VFX Srbija. CGA okuplja istaknute profesionalce iz industrije, pozicionirajući se kao regionalni CG hub na globalnom nivou. Od 1. oktobra besplatne registracije na cgabelgrade.com. THE BRAND NEWHEAVIES PONOVO U BEOGRADU The Brand New Heavies održaće dva koncerta u beogradskom klubu Bitefartcafe, u okviru koncertnog serijala Musicology Barcaffè Sessions, 29. i 30. oktobra ove godine. Pripremite se za bujicu fantastičnih doživljaja i uživajte u jedinstvenom i sofisticiranom esid džez zvuku. BRAND NEW HEAVIES BACK IN BELGRADE The Brand New Heavies will hold two concerts at Belgrade’s Bitefartcafe on 29th and 30th October, as part of the Musicology Barca è Sessions concert series. Get ready for a torrent of fantastic experiences and enjoy their unique and sophisticated acid jazz sound. BIOSKOP U DŽEPU RTS Planeta otvorila je vrata svog Bioskopa i omogućila korisnicima u Srbiji da gledaju omiljene filmove gde god da se nalaze! Sa bilo kog pametnog uređaja ili ličnog kompjutera korisnici RTS Planete sa teritorije Srbije mogu pristupiti ekskluzivnom izboru od 400 festivalskih, umetničkih, animiranih, porodičnih i dokumentarnih filmova iz svetske kinematografije. CINEMA IN YOUR POCKET RTS Planet has opened the doors of its Cinema and enabled users in Serbia to watch their favourite lms wherever they happen to be! From any smart device or personal computer, RTS Planet users from the territory of Serbia can access an exclusive selection of 400 festival, artistic, animated, family and documentary lms from world cinematography. THIRD CGA BELGRADE CONFERENCE SET FOR ST ND NOVEMBER As a joint endeavour between the Serbia Film Commission, Crater VFX Training Centre and portal VFX Serbia, CGA Belgrade is growing to become a compelling platform for showcasing state-of-the-art CGI development by bringing together the most prominent names in the elds of computer graphics, visual e ects, animation and digital arts, thus further positioning Serbia as the regional CG hub. Free registrations will be available from 1st October at cgabelgrade.com

24 | RADIVOJE BUKVIĆ, GLUMAC RADIVOJE BUKVIĆ, ACTOR Nakon 10 godina domaća publika može da vas gleda kako glumite na maternjem jeziku. Šta je bilo ključno u odluci da se posle toliko vremena vratite na srpske TV ekrane u seriji Besa? – Posle prvog čitanja bilo mi je jasno da se sa ovako kvalitetno napisanim scenariom na srpskom jeziku nisam nikad sreo. Posle višegodišnjeg i promišljenog radana likovima, događajima, situacijamakoji kraseovupričuproducenti su takođe imali zanimljivu zamisao. „Obratiti se stranom gledaocu“ i potruditi se da je njemu ispričamo. Ova dva argumenta su bila dovoljna da prihvatim izazov da tumačim lik glavnog junakaUroša Perića, kome se „nebo obrušava na glavu“. Naš proizvod dostigaojesvetski standardvelikihserijana Netfliksu, što objašnjava zašto su interesovanje za Besu do sada pokazale mnoge televizije Evrope, Azije i Amerike. Srbijapostajesvetskadestinacijazasnimanjestranihprodukcija.Upravo jezavršeno snimanje nekoliko stranih serija i filmova, a sve veći broj naših filmskih radnika je angažovanoutimprodukcijama.Da li jenašazemljadostiglanivosvetskihprodukcija? –Srbija jeuposlednjihnekolikogodina postala vrlo primamljiva za filmske usluge najpoznatijimsvetskimstudijima i produkcijama. Razloge toga treba tražiti u zakonu koji obezbeđuje povraćaj poreza svimstranim filmskim kompanijama, što je svetski standard, ali i uvisokomnivoukvaliteta rada naših filmskih radnika, koji zasad premašuju očekivanja, a poneki i oduševljavajustraneproducentekoji sudosadasnimali u Srbiji. Koliko sam upoznat, brojke govore da je tendencija snimanja stranih filmova u našoj zemlji u porastu, i to je ohrabrujuće za sve nas. Francuskaakademijafilmskihumetnosti vas jenominovalazačuvenunagradu Cezar ukategoriji „Mladanada francuskogfilma“, a postali ste i kreativni ambasador naše zemlje. Šta ovakve nominacije i „titule“ znače za vas profesionalno i lično? – Lepo je kada esnaf i društvo prepoznaju i nagrade vaš rad i trud. To zaista prija svakom umetniku, pa i meni naravno, međutimpriznanja ne smeju postati sama sebi svrha, niti lični cilj. Ja na njih gledam kao na dodatnu motivaciju. After a break of 10 years, the audience of your homeland is nally able to watch you act in your mother tongue. Whatwas thekey toyoudeciding to return toSerbianTV screens after so much time in the series “Besa”? - It was clear to me after the rst reading that I’d never previously come across such a well-written script in Serbian. After many years of thoughtful work on the characters, events and situations that comprise this story, the producers also had an interesting idea. “Address a foreign viewer” and strive to tell the story to him. These two arguments were enough to compel me to accept the challenge of playing the main character, Uroš Perić, who experiences “the sky falling onhis head”. Our product has reached the global standardof amajor series onNet x, whichexplains why somany European, Asian andAmerican television companies have so far shown an interest in “Besa”. Serbia is becoming a world destination for shooting foreign productions. Shooting of several foreign series and lms has just been completed, with an increasingnumber of our lm industry workers having been engaged in these productions. Has our country reached the level of world productions? -Serbiahasbecomeveryenticingfor lmservicesamongtheworld’smost famousstudiosand productioncompanies inrecentyears.Thereasons for this shouldbe sought in the lawproviding tax refunds to all foreign lm companies, which is a worldstandard, but also in thehighqualityof the level of work of our lm industry workers, which currentlyexceedsexpectationsandoftendelights foreignproducerswhohaveshot inSerbiatodate. As far as I’maware, gures show that the tendency to shoot foreign lms in our country is on the rise, and that’s encouraging to all of us. The French Academy of Cinematic Arts has nominatedyoufor thefamous César Award, inthe category of “Most Promising for French cinema”, whileyou’vealsobecomeacreativeambassador ofour country.Whatdosuchnominationsand“titles”mean to you professionally and personally? - It’s nicewhen guilds and society recognise and reward your work and e ort. That really gladdens every artist, myself included of course, but acknowledgements mustn’t become an end or personal goal in themselves. I view them as additional motivation. I STRANCI ŽELENAŠUBESU EVEN FOREIGNERSWANTOUR “BESA” Publika u Srbiji konačno ima priliku da u glavnoj ulozi u jednoj domaćoj seriji gleda Radivoja Rašu Bukvića, glumca koji je poslednjih godina osvajao Evropu i Holivud igrajući u filmovima „Transporter“, „Taken“, „A Good Day to Die Hard“ The Serbian public has nally been given the opportunity to see Radivoje ‘Raša’ Bukvić in the lead role of a domestic series, after this actor spent recent years conquering Europe andHollywoodwith roles in the lms Transporter, Taken, AGoodDay toDie Hard etc. Radivoje Bukvić je kreativni ambasador platforme Srbija stvara. Platforma obuhvata sistemske mere za razvoj sektora kreativnih industrija i inovacija i jačanja kulturne diplomatije. Više na www.serbiacreates.rs/ Radivoje Bukvić is a creative ambassador of the Serbia Creates platform. This platform encompasses systemic measures aimed at developing the sector of the creative industries and innovation, as well as strengthening cultural diplomacy. For more information visit www.serbiacreates.rs

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26 | SLAVLJE SRPSKE NACIONALNE AVIO KOMPANIJE CELEBRATIONSOF SERBIA’SNATIONALAIRLINE Prvi avion u bojama nove srpske nacionalne avio-kompanije, A319, pod imenomNovak Đoković, poleteo je 26. oktobra 2013. iz Beograda za Abu Dabi. Tim prvim letom između prestonica Srbije i Ujedinjenih Arapskih Emirata simbolično je uspostavljena nova uzdanica srpskog komercijalnog vazduhoplovstva – Er Srbija. U ovoj godini, u kojoj je kompanija obeležila 91 godinu od prvog komercijalnog leta (15. februar) i 92 godine tradicije (17. jun), obeležava se i šesti rođendan Er Srbije (26. oktobar). Pokretanjenove srpskenacionalne avio-kompanije započeto je potpisivanjem kod-šer sporazuma između Jat ervejza i Etihad ervejza 15. aprila 2013. Potomsu 15. juna2013. pokrenuti letovi EtihadaEY71 – izmeđuAbuDabija i Beograda, nakojima je Jat ervejz imaosvojmarketing-kod.Nakon toga, 1. avgusta te godine, potpisan je i ugovor o strateškompartnerstvuizmeđuVladeRepublike Srbije i Etihad ervejza, na osnovu kog je 51 odsto udela u srpskoj avio-kompaniji ostalouvlasništvu države Srbije, a vlasnik 49 odsto udela postala je nacionalna avio-kompanija Ujedinjenih Arapskih Emirata. Te 2013, 24. oktobra, jedan odpopularnih simbola Jata – poslovnica kodCrkveSvetogMarka, svečano jeotvorenaunovimbojama, podnovim imenom i novim brendom – Er Srbija. Dan kasnije, na svečanosti u velikom hangaru Jat tehnike, Er Srbija je i zvanično predstavljena javnosti u prisustvu najviših predstavnika Vlade Srbije, Etihada i brojnih zvaničnika, domaćih i inostranih medija i zaposlenih u avio-kompaniji. Sutradan je obavljen i prvi promotivni let Er Srbije avionom YU APC – Novak Đoković JU 800 od Beograda do Abu Dabija. Novak je prvi avion imenovan u okviru programa Žive legende, čiji je cilj odavanje priznanja pojedincima iz Srbije koji su briljirali na svom polju i čija su ostvarenja u skladu sa brendom i vrednostima Er Srbije. Do sada su letelice dobile imena po najboljem teniseruNovakuĐokoviću, košarkašuVladi Divcu, fudbaleru Dejanu Stankoviću, zvezdi srpskog i evropskog glumišta PredraguMikijuManojloviću i muzičkomsuperstaruGoranu Bregoviću. AIR SERBIA TURNS SIX ER SRBIJA NAPUNILA ŠESTGODINA The rst plane to y in the livery of the new Serbian national airline, an A319 named Novak Đoković, took to the skies on 26th October 2013, departing from Belgrade bound for Abu Dhabi. This rst ight between the Serbian capital and the United Arab Emirates symbolically established the new hope of Serbian commercial aviation –Air Serbia. During this year, whichhas seen the company commemorate the 91st anniversary of the country’s rst commercial ight (15th February ) and 92 years of tradition as the national airline (17th June), the sixth birthday of Air Serbia (26th October) is also being commemorated. The launch of the newSerbian national carrier beganwith the signing of a codeshare agreement between then JAT Airways and Etihad Airways on 15th April 2013. Then, on 15th June that same year, Etihad EY 71 ights were launched between Abu Dhabi and Belgrade, onwhich JAT Airways had its ownmarketing code. Subsequently, on 1st August 2013, a Strategic Partnership Agreement was signed between the Government of the Republic of Serbia and Etihad Airways, according towhich 51 per cent of shares in the Serbian airline remained under Serbian state ownership, while the national airline of the United Arab Emirates became the owner of a 49-per-cent stake. It was also in 2013, on 24thOctober, that one of the popular symbols of JAT – the branch of- ce close to St. Mark’s Church in Belgrade, formally re-opened in its new colours, under a newname and newbrand: Air Serbia. A day later, a ceremony in the large hangar of JATTechnical sawAir Serbia of- cially presented to the public, in the presence of the highest representatives of the Government of Serbia, Etihad and numerous o cials, domestic and foreignmedia representatives and airline sta . The rst promotional ight was conducted the very next day, withYUAPC - Novak Đoković Air Serbia, JU 800, ying fromBelgrade to Abu Dhabi. Novakwas the rst plane to be named under the scope of the“Living Legends”programme, which aims to recognise individuals fromSerbia who shine in their own eld of expertise andwhose achievements are in linewith the Air Serbia brand and values. Aircraft have to date been named after top tennis player Novak Đoković, basketball player Vlade Divac, footballer Dejan Stanković, star of Serbian and European acting Predrag‘Miki’Manojlović andmusic superstar Goran Bregović.

28 | ZAVRŠENA NAJVEĆA PROMOTIVNA AKCIJA NACIONALNOG AVIO PREVOZNIKA NATIONALCARRIER’SBIGGESTPROMOTIONAL CAMPAIGNCOMPLETED ER SRBIJA OBRADOVALA . PUTNIKA Ulazak u sedmu godinu poslovanja Er Srbija obeležila je do sada najvećompromotivnom akcijom, tokom koje je ponuđeno 250.000 sedišta u ekonomskoj klasi do čak 35 popularnih destinacija po izuzetno atraktivnim cenama. Prodaja promotivnih avio-karte završena je tokom proteklogmeseca, a karte važe za direktne letoveod 1. novembra 2019. sapovratkom do 31. marta 2020. godine. Kako bi izašla u susret individualnim željama i potrebama putnika i unapredila svoju ponudu, Er Srbija je ponudila popuste za povratne i karte u jednom pravcu, u Standard i Light tarifama, odnosno sa prtljagom i bez njega. Nacionalni avio-prevoznik potrudioseda izbordestinacijabudešto veći, pa je promotivnom kampanjom obuhvaćenavećinadestinacijadokojih kompanija leti. “Veoma nas raduje što smo u prilici da nagradimo putnike za godine odanosti i poverenja. Kao i uvek, cilj namjedaponudimonašustandardno dobru uslugu po najboljim cenama”, izjavio je Jirži Marek, direktor za komercijalu i strategiju Er Srbije. Marek je naglasio da aktuelna ponuda omogućava da liste željanašihputnika, na kojima jevelikibrojdestinacijauEvropi inaMediteranu, buduneuporedivo bliže i lakše dostupne. Akcija jenaišlana toliko interesovanjeda jesedmodnevno trajanjeproduženo za još sedam dana u septembru, a nastavak promocije obeležen je posebnom akcijom u TC Delta siti u Beogradu, gde sumališani, ali i njihovi roditelji, biti u prilici da se takmiče i osvoje vredne avio-karte. „Želeli smo da izađemo u susret svimakojiuprvihsedamdananisuuspeli da kupe povoljne karte. Veliko interesovanjejepotvrdadajeakcijarealizovanaupravomtrenutkuidaputnici, ali i kompanija,mogudabuduveoma zadovoljni. Još jednomsepokazalosa kolikimnestrpljenjem tržište očekuje akcije tog tipa i raduje nas što smo bili u prilici da ponudimo više“, izjavio je tom prilikom Jirži Marek. Air Serbia commemorated the start of its seventh year of operations with its largest promotional campaign todate, o ering250,000 economy-class seats to asmany as 35popular destinations under extremely attractiveprices. Sales of these promotional tickets were completed during the course of the past month, with the tickets valid for direct ights taking o from 1st November 2019 with return ights until 31st March 2020. Inane ort tomeet travellers’individual wishes and needs, and to improve its o er, Air Serbia o ered discounts on one-way and return tickets under Standard and Light fares –with andwithout luggage respectively. Serbia’s national carrier strove to ensure the choice of destinations was as wide as possible, which is why most of the destinations served by the airlinewere encompassed in this promotional campaign. “We are delighted to be able to reward travellers for their years of loyalty and trust. As always, our goal is to o er our standard good service at the best prices,” said Air Serbia Commercial and Strategy Director Jirzi Marek. Marek stressed that the current o er enables the wish lists of our passengers, which include a large number of destinations in Europe and the Mediterranean, to be incomparably closer and more easily accessible. The campaign attracted so much interest that its the seven-day duration was extended by another sevendays inSeptember, with the continuationof thepromotion marked by a special activity organised at Belgrade’s Delta City shopping centre, where youngsters and their parents were able to compete and win valuable ight tickets. “We wanted to meet the needs of everyone who didn’t manage to buy cheap tickets in the rst seven days. The great interest is con rmation that this campaign was implemented at the right juncture and that travellers, but also the company, can be very satis ed. The impatience with which the market awaits campaigns of this kind has been shown once again, and we’redelighted tohavebeenable toalways o ermore,” said Marek on this occasion. AIR SERBIADELIGHTS 250,000 PASSENGERS

30 | JEDAN I PO VEK TRGA REPUBLIKE CENTURYANDAHALFOFREPUBLICSQUARE SRCE BE 2019.

| 31 Danas omeđen „Gradskom kafanom“, Narodnim pozorištem i Domom Vojske Srbije, beogradski Trg republike traje već jedan i po vek. Kroz burnu istoriju menjao je ruho i ime, ali ostao je centar prestonice i omiljeno mesto za sastanke Today encirlced by the City Tavern, the National Theatre and the House of the Army of Serbia, Belgrade’s Republic Square has existed for a century and a half. Its name and appearance have changed throughout its tumultuous history, but it has remained at the centre of the capital and a as favourite meeting point HEART OF BELGRADE OGRADA

/ 32 | Najveća i najlepša od četiri kapijeBeogradaudobakada je ovaj gradbio turskavarošbila je čuvena Stambol kapija. NalazilaseizmeđudanašnjegNarodnog pozorišta i spomenikaknezuMihailuna Trgu republike, a ime je dobila po putu za Carigrad koji je tu počinjao. Uprkossvojoj lepoti, kapija jeupamćena kao mesto na kojem su Turci srpske pobunjenike mučki ubijali. Stoga je knez Mihailo Obrenović 1866. godine naredio da bude srušena kako bi Beograd umesto podsetnika na stradanje dobio simbol napretka. A tih šezdesetih godina 19. veka, ulice Beograda, koji je ležao na putu između istoka i zapada, bile su mračne i uske, ali se svet sve više prilagođavao zapadnjačkimukusima. U to vreme, nakon oslobođenja, rađa se potreba za prosvetom, kulturom, naukom. Igraju se prve pozorišne predstave, aliunedostatkuprostoraizvođene suugostionicama ilihotelskimsalama... Zato je knezMihailoObrenović obećao da će sazidati teatar. Nažalost, nije doživeodavidi ostvarenjesvojezamisli jer je 1868. godine ubijen u Košutnjaku. Ipak, prva predstava u novoizgrađenoj zgradi pozorišta krajem 1869. bila je posvećena njemu i zvala se Posmrtna slava kneza Mihaila. Nakon što je trajno uspostavljena srpska vlast i kapija porušena, oblast trga ipak je dugo ostala neuređena, a kao jedina zgrada tokom tri decenije stajalo je Narodno pozorište. I baš po toj zgradi, prostor današnjeg Trga republike prvobitno se zvao Pozorišni trg. Današnji simbol trga, spomenik knezu Mihailu, izgrađen je 1882. godine, pa je trg počeo da lagano dobija svojeprveobrise. Krajem1892. tuda je svečanoprošaoprvi tramvaj,prvalinija gradskogprevoza uBeogradu, koja je preko Pozorišnog trga povezivalaKalemegdan i Slaviju. Između dva svetska rata tu je bila okretnica tramvaja, koja je, zajedno sa šinama, posle Drugog svetskog rata uklonjena. Novi život Trgu dali su i boemi, koji su se okupljali u zgradi na mestu današnjeg Narodnog muzeja. Poznata pod imenom Kod konjske zadnjice, kultna kafana Dardaneli bila je jedna odnajpoznatijihkafanastarogBeograda. Krajem19. veka tu su rado svraćali glumciNarodnogpozorišta,pa Dardaneli postajusastajališteintelektualnog Beograda. Tu supisani članci zanovine, pozorišnekritikeodmahnakonodgledane predstave. Redovni gosti bili suĐura Jakšić, MilovanGlišić, Vlada Jovanović, Stevan Sremac, Janko Veselinović, Vojislav Ilić... Zgrada je srušena 1901, da bi dve godine kasnije na tom mestu nikla Uprava fondova, zdanje današnjeg Narodnog muzeja. Na mestu gde se danas nalazi omanji park, pored Narodnogpozorišta,doDrugogsvetskog rata bili su kafana i bioskop Kolarac, koji su imedobili povlasnikuzgrade i dobrotvoruIlijiMilosavljevićuKolarcu. Palata Reuniona,ukojoj jebiosmešten bioskop Jadran, izgrađena je1930. godine. Mada se oko njenog izgleda lome koplja skoro čitav vek, ona je i dalje jedan od simbola Trga. Tamo gde danas stoji zgrada Doma štampe, preDrugogsvetskog rata nalazile su se brojna dotrajala zdanja načičkana trgovačkim radnjama. Većina je uništena u bombardovanju 6. aprila 1941. godine. Po završetku rata u blizini su jedno vreme bili grobnica i spomenik palimborcima Crvene armije, da bi kasnije ostaci preneti na GrobljeoslobodilacaBeograda.Narednihgodinanikla je inajvećazgradana Trgu, Domštampe, u kojoj su smešteniKulturni centarBeograda sagalerijama,Međunarodnipres-centar,Gradska kafana… Nedavno je Beograd dobio svoj centralni trg u novom ruhu, više od vek i po otkako je ovaj trg počeo da se formira. Napravljena je raskošna i prostrana pešačka zona, postavljeno je 12 žardinjera sa ukrasnimdrvećem, četiri saobraćajne trake, pametne klupe s besplatnim internetom, senzorimaza temperaturu, kvalitet vazduha i buku, višeod100svetiljkinadaljinsko upravljanje čije svetlomože da se prilagođava događajima koji se na Trgu organizuju, parkingzabicikle... Posebnom obradom granita, na pešačkom delu obeleženo je mesto na kojem se nalazila Stambol kapija, a na pojedinimpločama granita biće obeleženo imestogdesusahranjivani crvenoarmejci pali uborbi za oslobođenjeBeograda 1944. godine. Sve to krasi novi Trg republike u Beogradu, ali onostaje ono staro, dobromestokoječuvasećanjana istoriju i kulturuprestonice, ali i hiljadeprvih ljubavnih sastanaka... 1910. Tekst/Words: Nevena Dimitrijević Fotografije/ Photography: Predrag Mitić, Muzej grada Beograda Trg republike možda ima novo lice, ali ostaje ono staro, dobro mesto koje čuva sećanja na istoriju i kulturu prestonice Republic Square has a new face, but it remains that same good old place that preserves memories of the history and culture of the capital

| 33 The largest andmost beautiful of Belgrade’s four gates during the periodwhen the citywas aTurkish town was the famous Stambol Gate. It was located between today’s National Theatre and the monument to PrinceMihailo on Republic Square, while it was named after the road that led from there to Istanbul. Despite its beauty, the gate was remembered as the place where the Turks tortured and killed Serbian rebels. That was why Prince Mihailo Obrenović ordered in 1866 that it be demolished and replaced with a symbol of progress instead of a reminder of the suffering of Belgrade. And back during the 1860s, the streets of Belgrade – which sat on the road between East andWest – were dark and narrow, while the world was increasingly adapting to Western tastes. That post-liberation time sawa need arise for education, culture and science. The first theatre plays were performed, but the absence of a bespoke space meant that they were performed in inns or hotel halls... That’s why Prince Mihailo promised to build a theatre. He unfortunately didn’t live to see the realisation of his idea, as he was assassinated in Košutnjak Forest in 1868. Nevertheless, the first play performed in the newly constructed theatre building at the end of 1869 was dedicated to him and called “The Posthumous Glory of Prince Mihailo”. Following the permanent establishing of the Serbian government and the demolition of the gate, the area of the square remained unregulated for a long time, with the National Theatre standing for three decades as the only building in the area. And it was after this building that the area of today’s Republic Square was originally calledTheatre Square. The symbol of the square today, the monument to Prince Mihailo, was erected in 1882, so the square began gradually gaining its first contours. It was from here, at the end of 1892, that the first tram ceremoniously embarked on the first Belgrade city transport line, connecting Kalemegdan and Slavija viaTheatre Square. The tram terminal was located there in the period between the two world wars, before being removed – along with the rails – after World War II. New life was also brought to the square by the Bohemians who gathered in the building that stood on the site of today’s National Museum. Known under the nickname“At the Horse’s Behind”, the cult kafana tavern “Dardaneli” was one of old Belgrade’s most famous taverns. Actors of the National Theatre happily came here at the end of the 19th century, and “Dardaneli” became a meeting place for Belgrade intellectuals. There newspaper articles and theatre reviews were written immediately after shows. Regular guests included the likes of Đura Jakšić, Milovan Glišić, Vlada Jovanović, Stevan Sremac, Janko Veselinović and Vojislav Ilić. The building of the kafana was demolished in 1901, only for the building of the Fund Mortgage Bank to emerge two years later – as the original occupant of the building that houses today’s National Museum. Until World War II, the site beside the National Theatre that’s today occupied by a small park was home to the ‘Kolarac’ tavern and cinema, named after the owner of the building and benefactor Ilija Milosavljević Kolarac. Reunion Palace, which housed the‘Jadran’cinema, was built in 1930. And although its appearance has been a cause of dispute for almost a century, it remains as one of the symbols of the Square. The area today occupied by the Simbol trga, spomenik knezu Mihailu, izgrađen je 1882. godine, The symbol of the square today, the monument to Prince Mihailo, was erected in 1882 1935. 1965. building of Press House had numerous dilapidated buildings packed with merchants’ workshops prior to World War II. Most of them were destroyed during the bombing of 6th April 1941. Upon the conclusion of the war, a tomb and monument to the fallen soldiers of the Red Army were situated nearby for a while, only for the remains to later be transferred to the Cemetery of the Liberators of Belgrade. It was during the following years that this square’s largest building emerged - Press House, which houses the Belgrade Cultural Centre with galleries, the International Press Centre, the “City Tavern”... Belgrade’s central square recently received a new look, more than a century and a half after its formation was launched. A lavish and spacious pedestrian area has been created, 12 flowerbeds with ornamental trees, four lanes for traffic, smart benches with free internet, sensors for temperature, air quality and noise, over 100 lights that are controlled remotely and can be adapted to events organised on the Square, a parking area for bicycles etc. Specially adapted granite on the pedestrianised area marks the spot once occupied by Stambol Gate, while individual granite slabs will also mark the origianl burial site of the Red Army soldiers who fell in the fight to liberate Belgrade in 1944. All of this adorns the new Republic Square in Belgrade, but it remains that same good old place that preserves memories of the history and culture of the capital, but also countless first dates...

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