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Putovanja
/ Travel
Bilo je mnogo takvih naselja u negotinskom
kraju, ali je samo nekoliko sačuvano do danas, među
njima su najpoznatije Rajačke pivnice, pored sela
Rajac, nadomak Negotina. Rajačke pivnice se još ko-
riste – sačuvano je sto devedeset šest podruma (i tri
destilerije), od kojih se pedeset sedam još koriste za
proizvodnju vina. Zgrade su sagrađene od kamena
i drveta, a kompozicija čitavog kompleksa podseća
na obično selo: sa glavnim trgom, saborištem i bu-
narom sa pijaćom vodom, te nekoliko manjih trgova,
ulica i aleja.
Podrumi i vino bili su uključeni u mnoge rituale
povezane s rođenjem i sahranama. Na izlasku iz
pivnica, nalazi se i rajačko groblje. Vinski podrumi
su bili toliko važni za lokalno stanovništvo da su
seljani birali da budu sahranjeni blizu svojih po-
druma, umesto da budu bliže kućama. Čak i danas,
arhaični ritual je sačuvan – poslednje obredne i po-
grebne ceremonije izvode se uz vino, a za vlasnike
podruma obred pred sahranu održava se u komplek-
su podruma. Obred se izvodi tako što glava svakog
domaćinstva iz svog podruma uzima crveno vino,
i kada procesija prolazi izliva vino preko točkova
pogrebnih kola.
Na centralnom trgu raste i stogodišnji dud
poznat kao „zapis“, sveto drvo ispod koga se slavi
seoska slava.
Dve najveće slave, seoska slava Sveti Trifun i
Sveta Trojica, praznovale su se u kompleksu po-
druma. Na dan Svetog Trifuna, ljudi su odlazili u
vinograde odakle bi donosili tri grančice vinove
loze i koprivu, kako bi svetac pomogao da grožđe
dobro rodi, nakon čeka su se meštani okupljali za
zajedničkom trpezom pod svetim drvetom, zapisom,
mestom na kome je gozba počinjala. Na dan Svete
Trojice, procesija se skupljala pred crkvom odakle
je obilazila sve sveto drveće u okolini. Obilazak se
završavao u centru „pimnica“, pod svetim stablom. U
tim prilikama svi podrumi su se otvarali, a seljani su
zauzimali mesta za stolom naspram svog podruma.
Kao zaveštanje snazi tradicije, ovi običaji, u do-
nekle izmenjenom obliku, sačuvani su do danas.
Čak je i seosko groblje
podignuto uz kompleks vinskih
podruma, a ne uz naselje u
kome meštani žive.
e
Even the village cemetery
was established near the
compound of unique cellars,
not near village.
with a drinking fountain, several smaller squares,
streets and alleys. The most famous white wines
here are made from Semillon, Bagrina and Sme-
derevka grape varieties, with Sauvignon and Italian
Riesling also represented. Red wines are made from
Prokupac and Pinot Noir. The Bagrina, Prokupac
and Smederevka varieties are old, autochthonous
grape types.
In the centre of the settlement is a century-old
mulberry tree known as „Zapis“, a sacred tree where
village patron saints’ days used to be celebrated.
Near the end of „town“ the Rajac cemetery can be
found. Yes, the wine cellars were so important to the
local population that they even built a graveyard
amongst the Rajačke pivnice - the villagers opted to
be buried close to their wine and not their homes.
These cellars and the wine were incorporated
into many birth and burial rituals. Even today an ar-
chaic custom has been preserved - the last rites and
funeral ceremonies are performed with wine and for
those who have cellars the funeral ceremony is held
in the cellar complex. According to the ceremony,
each head of the household takes red wine from his
cellar and when the procession passes by he pours
the wine over the hearse wheels.
The two greatest celebrations of the Village
Patron Saints’ Days, St. Trifun and the Holy Trin-
ity, used to be held in the cellar compound. On St.
Trifun’s Day people would go to the vineyards and
pick three grape vine stalks and nettles so that the
saint would help the grapes to be fruitful, after which
the people gathered by the sacred Zapis tree and the
common table - an assembly place where the feasting
started. On Holy Trinity Day, in front of the village
church, a procession would assemble and head out to
visit all the sacred trees in the area. They would end
up in the cellar compound, in the centre, at the sacred
tree. On these occasions all the cellars were opened
and everyone would be sitting at a feast table in front
of their own cellars. As a testament to the power
of tradition, these customs, in somewhat modified
forms, have been preserved to the present day.
Negotinske pivnice
su udaljene 240
kilometara od Aero-
droma Beograd.
Village of Negotin-
ske pivnice is situ-
ated 240 kilometers
from Belgrade
airport.
