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za koji je prvo potrebno napraviti starter, „počim“
„maju“, tako što se brašno ostavi nekoliko dana da
uskisne u vodi ili jogurtu, potom se meša s testom,
ponovo ostavlja da se polako diže više od 48 sati, pa
se opet mesi, pa opet diže...
Jednom kad se napravi dobro kiselo testo za
hleb, uvek se ostavlja komadić s kojim se onda mesi
novi hleb, a ta fermentacija ključna je za „žilavost“
koja odlikuje svaki hleb od kiselog testa, od pozna-
tog sourdough hleba od prirodnog kvasca, iz San
Franciska, do danskoga hleba.
U restoranu Šeneman (Schønnemann), recimo,
ponose se svojim hlebom koji se mesi sa starterom
od kiselog testa koji održavaju ‘živim’ već više od
stotinu i pedeset godina! No, oni nude samo tradi-
cionalni, isključivo ražani hleb koji mora najduže
narastati.
Iako je danska pekarska industrija s Emerisom
i nekoliko drugih privatnih manjih pekara napra-
vila čudo još pre velikog danskog gastronomskog
buma, pekarstvo je tamo oduvek veoma cenjen i
značajan biznis. Danski kralj je u 17. veku dozvolio
pekarima da na svoj esnafski grb stave njegovu kru-
nu. Inače, u centru cehovskog amblema danskih pe-
kara, koji i danas visi iznad poslastičarnica i pekara,
nalazi se kringel venčić, pereca koja u Danskoj nije
samo slano pecivo, već i tipičan kolač od lisnatog
testa filovan marcipanom ili suvim grožđem, posut
listićima badema i karamelizovan kristal šećerom.
Dansko pekarstvo ipak je u svetu najpoznatije
po jednom sličnom kolaču, danskom pecivu. Tu
poslasticu od lisnatog testa u celom svetu smatraju
danskim izumom, osim u Danskoj, gde se zove
vinerbred (wienerbrød – bečki hleb), u čast bečkim
poslastičarima koji su im recept doneli sredinom
19. veka. Lisnato testo bečki je kulinarski izum, pa
je i čuveni francuski kroasan zapravo austrijskog
porekla.
Lisnato testo brzo se proširilo i modifikovalo po
celoj Evropi. Čak i u našem regionu, koji je delom
e
At the Schønnemann Restaurant,
for example, they take pride in their
bread, which is kneaded with a sour-
dough starter that has been kept ‘alive’
for more than a hundred and fifty years!
However, they offer only traditional,
purely rye bread that takes the longest
to rise.
Although the Danish bakery in-
dustry, thanks to Emmerys and several
other small private bakeries, worked a
miracle even before the great Danish
gastronomic boom, bakeries have
always been highly valued and impor-
tant businesses in this country. It was
back in the 17
th
century that the Danish
king first allowed bakers to include his
crown on the emblem of their guild.
At the centre of the emblem of the
Danish bakers guild, which still hangs
above cake shops and bakeries, is the
golden Kringle, a Nordic variety of
pretzel, which in Denmark is not only
a savoury pastry, but also a typical
sweet made from puff pastry filled with
marzipan or raisins and topped with
sprinkles of almond slices and cara-
melised crystal sugar.
Danish baking is best known
around the world, however, for another
similar sweet cake: Danish pastry.
This puff pastry treat is considered
the world over as a Danish invention,
except in Denmark, where it is called
wienerbrød (Viennese bread), in honour
of Viennese pastry chefs who brought
the recipe to Denmark in the mid-19
th
century. Viennese puff pastry is a culi-
nary invention, thus the famous French
croissant is actually of Austrian origin.
Viennoiserie puff pastry quickly
spread throughout Europe and modi-
fied. Even in our region, which lived
under Austro-Hungarian rule, we
learned long ago to make a kind of
puff pastry. However, as there was less
butter here and it was expensive, our
grandmothers and great grandmothers
used lard, with the same method used
to make Viennese puff pastry, substitut-
ing butter with the minced unrendered
leaf lard.
Legend has it that the Danes
learned to make Viennoiserie puff
pastry during the great Danish
bakery strike of 1850, when bakery
owners were forced to hire a number
of Austrian master bakers to break
the strikes. They brought their recipe
with them and the Danes immedi-
ately embraced it, transforming it
into a national delicacy traditionally
eaten for breakfast, on weekends, and
during important family and national
holidays.
Danish pastry gained internation-
al acclaim at the beginning of the 20
th
century, when it was introduced to the
Pecivo Lahkeghuseta svrstava se među najkvalitetnije
pekarske i poslastičarske proizvode u Danskoj
e
The pastries of Lagkagehuset rank among the highest
quality baked and confectionery products in Denmark
