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OTMENO PEKARSTVO KOPENHAGENA
/ CLASSY BAKERIES OF COPENHAGEN
Tekst / Words:
Nada Mirković
Fotografije / Photography:
Lagkagehuset
Per Brun, osnivač
Emerisa (desno),
bez ustezanja
prodaje svoj hleb,
iako vodi veliku
kompaniju
e
Per Brun,
the founder of
Emmerys (right),
sells his own
bread without
hesitation,despite
F
rancuske i italijanske pekare
naći ćete po celom svetu, a
danskih ima tek nekoliko – sku-
pe i otmene, nalaze se samo u
najvećim metropolama. Zato je
prvi susret s danskim hlebom
za većinu iznenađenje, posle
kojeg sledi – ljubav na prvi pogled.
Ne mislimo na onaj veoma tamni raženi
hleb dugog trajanja, krcat različitim semenka-
ma, čija se inferiorna varijanta, spakovana u
plastičnu foliju, prodaje u trgovinama zdrave
hrane. Ne, reč je o hlebu koji liči na naš, samo
je izrazitijeg ukusa, žilav i mekan istovreme-
no, debele hrskave korice kojoj je nemoguće
odoleti.
Takav hleb s puterom, to je jelo za sebe,
pravo kulinarsko čudo. Možda i zato jer se
puter u Danskoj gotovo isključivo pravi od
mleka krava koje se uzgajaju organski, bez
antibiotika i hormona rasta, na otvorenom,
na pašnjacima bez pesticida. Hleb i puter
kao specijalitet treba probati u restoranu
Braseri hotela Nimb ili u hotelu D’Angleter u
Kopenhagenu, gde ga ne peku sami, kao što je
to kod nas običaj u boljim restoranima, već ga
dobavljaju iz najbolje danske pekare Emeris,
osnovane 1996, koja je promenila kulturu hle-
ba u Danskoj.
Emeris je za Dance laboratorija i ašram
za refleksije o hlebu, a Per Brun, osnivač
Emerisa, prema hlebu ima gotovo mističan
odnos. Smatra ga istinskim slow foodom, pra-
vim gastronomskim čudom.
Najbolji danski hleb nastaje dugotrajnim
procesom koji, u slučaju ražanog, traje čak
šest ili sedam dana. Najbolje danske pekare
peku isključivo hleb bez industrijskog kvasca,
e
You can find French and Italian baker-
ies all over the world, while there are only a
few Danish bakeries – expensive and fancy,
they are found only in the biggest metropolis-
es. That’s why the first introduction to Danish
bread is a surprise for most, followed by love
at first sight.
Here we are not thinking of that very dark
long-life rye bread, crunching with various
seeds – inferior versions of which are wrapped
in plastic and sold in health food stores. No,
we mean bread that resembles the Serbian
kind, but has a more pronounced taste and is
both tough and soft at the same time, with a
thick, crispy crust that is impossible to resist.
That kind of bread smothered in butter
is a meal in its own right; a genuine culinary
miracle. Perhaps that’s because butter in
Denmark is produced almost exclusively from
the milk of cows raised organically, without
antibiotics and growth hormones, outdoors,
on pasturelands not treated with pesticides.
You should sample the speciality of bread
and butter at the Brasserie restaurant of the
Hotel Nimb or at the Hotel D’Angleter in
Copenhagen, where they do not bake the
bread themselves, as is the custom in our bet-
ter restaurants, but rather purchase it from
the best Danish bakery, Emmerys, which was
founded in 1996 and changed the culture of
bread in Denmark.
For Danes, Emmerys is a laboratory and
ashram for reflections on bread, while Per
Bruhn, the founder of the Emmerys brand, has
an almost mystical relationship with bread.
He considers it a true slow food, a genuine
culinary miracle.
The best Danish bread is produced
through lengthy process that, in the case of
rye bread, takes as long as six or seven days.
The best Danish bakers bake bread exclusive-
ly without industrial yeast, for which it is first
necessary to make a sourdough starter, by
leaving the flour to pre-ferment for a few days
and become leavened in water or yoghurt,
after which it is kneaded with dough, again
left to rise slowly for more than 48 hours, and
again kneaded, and again left to rise...
Once you have made a good bread sour-
dough, you always set aside a piece with
which to make the next loaf, and this pre-
fermentation is crucial for the “toughness”
that characterises all sourdough bread, from
the famous natural yeast San Francisco sour-
dough bread, to Danish bread.
