Elevate No2.indd - page 44

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In addition to the pas-
sion that all four of them bring
to the job, and the family
warmth that complements the
atmosphere, the principles set
by the restaurant Don Alfonso,
named after the family’s first
restaurateur, the grandfather of
today’s don Alfonso, are very
simple: food is prepared using
fresh, local ingredients, with
great respect for traditional lo-
cal recipes. The fish is fresh-
ly caught in the straits, while
fruit and vegetables are freshly
picked on the estate.
The recipes used hail exclu-
sively from the south of Italy.
For decades the Iaccarino fami-
ly has explored the culinary his-
tory of the area in which they
live, which created long waiting
lists for a place in their cooking
school, located in a rather small
backyard kitchen.
The taste of one of the dish-
es we tried, slow cooked tuna
confit, overwhelmed the pal-
ate in an unusual way. When
we asked Ernest how he pre-
pared it, he just laughed: „That’s
a two-thousand-year-old Roman
recipe that we uncovered.“
Alongside local dishes, the
restaurant also serves local
Campania wines, spirited from
indigenous grape varieties such
as Flangini or Greco di Tufo...
But the Don Alfonso 1890 es-
tate possesses one of the most
important collections of wines
in the south of Italy. In the un-
derground halls located directly
beneath the hotel, which were
carved as far back as the time
of the Etruscans, 25,000 bottles
of wine from around the world
are stored, including some very
rare specimens. In the deepest
halls, 50 metres underground,
local cheeses mature.
The respect and attention
provided to every visitor of the
Iaccarino family estate is worth
experiencing, at least once. It is
a rare and unusual experience.
Jastog, mocarela sir, pire od
patlidžana...
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Lobster, mozzarella, aubergi-
ne puree...
Dimljeni gof (
yellowtail
), seme
komorača, grejpfrut majonez,
citrus pomelo /
cedrangolo
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Smoked Yellowtail fish, fen-
nel seeds, grapefruit mayonnai-
se, cetrangolo citrus
Jastog pržen u dubokom ulju,
patlidžan, cvet tikvice, sos od
pomorandže i limuna
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Deep fried lobster, auber-
gine, courgette flower, orange
and lemon sauce
Prženo jaje, pena od sira burata,
crni tartuf, boranija
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Baked egg, Burrata cheese
foam, black truffle, runner beans
Špageti, sos od plave ribe, lo-
kalna riba makra
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Spaghetti, blue fish sauce –
local macra fish
Sporo kuvana tuna, sos od za-
činskog bilja
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Slow cooked tuna, herb sau-
ce – mint, fennel and pepper
Jagnjetina, tri različita načina
pripreme, mediteranski sos
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Lamb – three different coo-
king methods, Mediterranean
sauce
Koncert od limuna
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Lemon concerto
Osim strasti koja sve četvo-
ro unose u posao, i porodične
topline koja upotpunjuje atmo-
sferu, principi na kojima je po-
stavljen restoran Don Alfonso,
nazvan po prvom ugostitelju,
dedi današnjeg don Alfonsa,
vrlo su jednostavni: hrana se
priprema od svežih, lokalnih
namirnica, sa velikim poštova-
njem za lokalne tradicionalne
recepte. Riba je tek ulovljena u
moreuzu, a povrće i voće netom
ubrano na imanju.
Recepti su isključivo sa
juga Italije. Decenijama porodi-
ca Iakarino istražuje kulinarsku
istoriju kraja u kome žive, što je
stvorilo dugačke liste čekanja
za mesto u njihovoj školi kuva-
nja, smeštenoj u nevelikoj dvo-
rišnoj kuhinji.
Ukus jednog od jela koja
smo probali, sporo kuvana tu-
njevina
confit
, razgalila je nep-
ca na nesvakidašnji način. Kada
smo upitali Ernesta kako je to
pripremio, samo se nasmejao:
„to je dve hiljade godina star
rimski recept, koji smo otkrili“.
Uz lokalna jela, služe se i lo-
kalna vina Kampanje, produho-
vljeno spravljena od autohtonih
sorti grožđa kao što su flangi-
na ili greko di tufo... Ali imanje
Don Alfonso 1890 poseduje jed-
nu od najvažnijih kolekcija vina
na jugu Italije. U podzemnim
dvoranama tačno ispod hotela,
koje su probili još Etrurci, čuva
se 25 hiljada boca vina iz sve-
ta, sa nekim veoma retkim pri-
mercima. U najdubljoj dvorani,
pedesetak metara pod zemljom
sazrevaju lokalni sirevi.
Poštovanje i pažnju koju do-
bije svaki pojedinačni posetilac
imanja porodice Iakarino, vredi
osetiti, barem jednom. To je re-
dak i nesvakidašnji doživljaj.
Restoran Don Alfonso 1890, svrstan je
među deset najboljih na svetu
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Restaurant Don Alfonso 1890, ranked
among the world’s top ten eateries
Provolone del Monaco, sir koji je
dozrevao 24 meseca
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Provolone del Monaco, cheese
matured for 24 months
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