46 | isers this timearoundwereLadyGaga,AlessandroMichele, HarryStyles andSerenaWilliams.Thecriteria for selectingher assistants are clear.Wintour simply knowswho’s in trend, and she also knows what shewants. She always knew that. She showed her determinationasa teenager,whenshe refusedtowear aschool uniform, and especially when she announced to her parents that she was leavingtheNorthLondonCollegiateschool.After trainingatHarrods, shebeganattending fashionclasses, but alsoquit that.“Youeither knowwhat fashion is or you don’t,”she explained. Contrary toAnna’s inconsistency in formal education, she stuck toher solid lifegoals and forged a consistent image. There is nobetter illustration of her consistency than the fact that she’s worn the same cult bob hairstyle since she was 14 years old. She devised her teenager imagewhile listing through the pages of teenmagazines. Even back then she knew what was for her and what, as time has shown, would become a stamp of enduring style. There are indications that the storyof thebulkyglasses that she rarely appearswithout in public are not so fashionably authentic, but rather motivated by health reasons. Anna allegedly has problems with her sight. There is strong evidence that her career, rst as a fashion journalist and then as an editor, was initiated by her father, CharlesWintour, the former chief editor of London’s Evening Standard newspaper,who–whenseekingananswer tothequestionofwhat interests youngreaders–oftensoughthelpfromhiswiseandtalenteddaughter. The heir of a Britishman and an American lady, a descendent of duchesses and baronesses, she advanced step by step from being her father’s assistant to reaching the pinnacle of world fashion – the holy grail that is Vogue. TheambitiousAnnahadtotestherownpatience,andshecouldn’t have imagined– let aloneexpected– abetter antechamber to fashion paradise than the British version of Vogue. The sta , however, could come upwithmillions of editors better thanher, dubbingher “NuclearWintour”, andreferringtotheperiodofher editorship, from 1985 to 1987, as “theWintour of our discontent”. She changed BritishVogue to the same extent that she changed the face of the Met Gala. What did she do? She brought it closer to the American version, telling confused and angry journalists that a newwoman has emerged–onewhois interestedinworkandmoneyandhasnotime for shopping.Themodernwomanwants toknowwhat, why, where andhow. Resembleanyoneyouknow? Itwas then time for her tosit on the throneof theAmerican fashionbible and shake it to its roots. She changed the cover page, turning its focus completely towards fashion fromamagazine that haduntil then resembleda lifestyleperiodical, combiningexpensive costumepieceswitha ordable designs, changing its aesthetics – doing so, critics argue, to the bene t of the elitist approach, strengthening the signi cance of famous personalities who, according to her, must be represented in Vogue. This lastmovebrings clarity toher 2014decision to illustrate the cover pagewith an image of KimKardashianWestwithher husband KanyeWest and daughter NorthWest. What the futurewill bring remains for us tosee, whileAna–as a faultlessplanner–certainlyalreadyknowsthemost importantdetails. What is also certain tohappen in the future is the following: Shewill always be the rst to arrive at theMet Gala, rising at six in themorning, trainingandheading towork; shewill spend20minutes at each eventandheadtobedat10.15pm. Shewill continue ghtingagainst aids and for the CFDA, theVogue fund that helps young designers. That’s how Anna is. This rebel has become the perfect organiser of her own life. But she’s also one of the most in uential women in the world, according to Forbes’ assessment, an Honourable Dame of Great Britain and a recipient of the highest fashion awards ofherowncountry,whohas retainedher rebellious spirit andshows it where it’smost needed – in fashion, in order tomake it better and moremeaningful. Just as she wanted to do all those years ago... juzanimajuposaoinovac ikoja nemavremenazakupovinu.Moderna žena želi da zna šta, zašto, gde i kako. Liči vam na nekog? Posle toga bilo je vreme da sednenatronameričkemodneBiblije i uzdrma je iz korena. Izmenila je naslovne strane, okrenulagaupotpunosti kamodi od časopisa koji je do tada bio nalik lajfstajl novinama, kombinovala skupe odevne komade sa pristupačnimmodelima, menjalanjegovuestetiku, kakokritičari tvrde, u korist elitističkogpristupa, pojačala značaj poznatih ličnosti, koje, premanjenimrečima, morajudabuduzastupljeneu Vogu. Ovo poslednje čini jasnijom njenuodlukuda 2014. na naslovnicu stavi sliku Kim Kardašijan Vest sa suprugom Kanjeom Vestom i ćerkomNort Vest. Šta će doneti budućnost, videćemo, aAna kao besprekorni planer sigurno već zna najvažnije detalje. Ono što je sigurno da će se dešavati i ubuduće je sledeće: na Met galu će uvek doći prva, ustajaće u šest sati ujutru, treniraće, pa krenuti na posao, na svakom događaju ostajaće 20 minuta, a na spavanje će odlaziti u 22.15 h. Nastaviće da se bori protiv side i za CFDA, fond Voga koji pomaže mladim dizajnerima. Takva jeAna. Buntovnica jepostalasavršeni organizator svog života. Ali je jedna od najticajnijih žena na svetu, prema procenama Forbsa, počasna ledi Velike Britanije i dobitnica najvišeg modnog priznanja svoje zemlje, sačuvala buntovnički duh i pokazuje ga tamo gde je najpotrebnije – u modi, kako bi je učinila boljom i smislenijom. Baš kao što je želela pre mnogo, mnogo godina… “CAMP: NOTES ON FASHION” Wintour continues the tradition launched by Met Gala founder and fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert. One strong woman was succeeded by another strong woman. She will take strides forward this month at the Met Gala with the new theme “Camp: Notes on Fashion”, inspired by the essay of the same name written by Susan Sontag. Ana Vintur sa Karlom Lagerfeldom Anna Wintour with Karl Lagerfeld
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