thatemphasisethe femalesilhouette.At rst glance,heseemstohavelinkedvariouscollectionsanddesignsviathesameapproachthat shaped the silhouette according to a predeterminedappearance.Thewastewasemphasised, relocated or tightened. The hips grew and shrunk thanks to the choice of material. Shantung silk, organza, ta eta, satin, velvet...He lovedadornmentsandpatterns, and drewinspiration fromhistory.TheBelleÉpoquewas his favourite period, alongwith the eclectics that it brought. Large quantities of fabrics, skill and decorations he used didn’t hinder thereadabilityof thedesigns.Hehighlightedonly one thing, laceor glitteringmaterial or cut, which gave the designs a clear look. He cut out theexcess and thus emphasised the essential. He highlighted the cuts withhischoiceofdull coloursandfabricwith simple cuts. Intended for the privileged, the haute couture designs he created were understandabletoeveryone.Andthat isprobablywhere the secret of his success is hidden. He sawthepower of themediaon time and built excellent relations with the press, which rendered himand his designs visible to a wider audience, even though these reviews were only for the chosen few. He appeared on the cover of Time magazine in 1957, gave lots of interviews and dressed stars likeMarleneDietrich andAvaGardner. He created the dress that Princess Margaret wore for her 21st birthday. Each year, via thepress, heannouncedmajor changes that mostoftenrelatedtothe lengthof skirts.The media accepted his descriptions that were almost like orders, so you could read about some colour that’s not to be worn or which types of hats are forbidden. Each collection included around 200 items. He created perfumes and introduced a sectionfor socksandgloves. RogerVivierdesignedshoes for hisboutique. In theend, his Parisianoutlet soldcompleteaccessories for women.Hecreatedforonlytenyears,butthat was enough to restore Paris’s splendour as a capitalof fashion,hechoseYvesSaintLaurent asanassistantandlaidthefoundations foran empire that endures to this day. He became and remains synonymous with classical elegance. During a holiday inMontecatini, just a fewweeksbefore the1958show,Diordied from a heart attack. Following his death, he was replaced successively in the position of leading creatorbyYvesSaint Laurent,MarcBohan, Gianifranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri, whose creations are also on display in the exhibition that runs until 14th July 2019. New look i danas deluje sofisticirano, ali bez steznika i dobrog grudnjaka nema ovakve siluete The “New Look” still appears sophisticated today, but without a corset and a good bra there is no silhouette like this
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