| 91 TVRĐAVARAM VelikoGradište Ova utvrda spada među najstarije u Srbiji – zapisi o njoj sežu još na početak 12. veka, premda niko ne zna kada je tačno nastala… Ono što je sigurno jeste da je njena istorija veoma burna i zanimljiva, da su se za nju otimali Ugri, Vizantinci i Turci. Pogled sa tvrđave, koja je i danas veoma dobro očuvana, što je njena velika prednost, toliko je veličanstven i opuštajući da se upravo za njega vezuje legenda o postanju Rama. Veruje se da je baš ovde, na mestu gde je Dunav najplići i gde pravi veliku krivinu, nekada davno moćni turski sultan Bajazit Drugi rasprostro svoj ćilim kako bi se odmorio i uživao u vidiku. Sedeći tako na prostirci (ihramu), kažu da je zaspao, a potom se nekoliko sati kasnije probudio preporođen. Tada je izdao naređenje da se na brežuljku na kojem je položio svoj ihram podigne tvrđava, koja je po turskoj reči za ćilim i dobila ime. RAM FORTRESS, VELIKO GRADIŠTE This fortress is among the oldest in Serbia – with records dating back to the early 12th century, though nobody knows the precise date of construction... What is certain is that it’s a very turbulent and interesting history, that it was plundered and held by the Hungarians, Byzantines and Turks. The fortress remains very well preserved today, which is its great advantage, and the view from there is so magni cent and relaxing that this vista itself is linked to a legend about the emergence of Ram. It is believed that it was right here, at the spot where the Danube is at its shallowest and turns in a great meander, that mighty Turkish Sultan Bayezid II once spread his carpet to rest and enjoy the view. Sitting on his rug, he is said to have fallen asleep, only to awaken a few hours later feeling reborn. So he issued an order for a fortress to be erected on that rise, just where he’d laid his kilim, and the Turkish word ‘ram’, for carpet, remained as the name. FETISLAM Kladovo Kada izađete iz centra Kladova i uputite se prema Hidroelektrani Đerdap, dočekaće vas krivudava, kamena staza obrasla mahovinom vremena, a ako biste pratili njen put, ubrzo biste dospeli do Fetislama ili Kladovskog grada. Tačno ime ove utvrde, sagrađene u doba Sulejmana Veličanstvenog kao poslednje linije turske odbrane ka Ugrima, zapravo jeste Fethislam ili Kapija islama, a u literaturi se može pronaći i pod imenima Bedem vere i Kapija mira. Zanimljivo je i da su tvrđavu, sačinjenu od Velikog i Malog grada, Srbi u svomduhu prozvali Svetislav. Ova uspavana stara dama već gotovo pet vekova pamti miris baruta, topot konja i zveket teških viteških oklopa, sablji i buzdovana, a veruje se da je nekada u njoj bilo svega: hamama, barutane, magacina, dućana, bogomolja, kaldrmisanih ulica, škola, pijaca… Danas ovoj utvrdi poseban pečat daju ostaci stare Sulejman-hanove džamije sa minaretom od cigle. Čuveni putopisac Evlija Čelebija ostavio je dragocena svedočenja o Fetislamu, istakavši da su njegovi stanovnici bili pretežno turski trgovci i zanatlije, a zvao ga je Kuća spasenja. FETISLAM, KLADOVO When you exit the centre of Kladovo in the direction of the Đerdap hydro power plant, you will be awaited by a winding trail, a stone trail covered in themoss of time, and if you were to follow its path you’d soon reach Fetislamor Kladovo Fortress. The exact name of this fortress, which was built during the era of Suleiman theMagni cent as the front line of the Ottomans’ defence against the Hungarians, is in fact Fethislamor the“gate of Islam”, and in literature it can be found under the names“the ramparts of faith”and the“gate of peace”. It is interesting that the fortress, comprising the Great and Small Towns, was called by the Serbs in their spirit“Svetislav”. This dormant old lady recalls the scent of gunpowder dating back almost ve centuries, the hooves of horses and the clinking of knights’ heavy armour, sabres andmaces, and it is believed to have housed everything once upon a time: a hammambaths, gunpowder stores, warehouses, shops, chapels, cobblestone streets, a school, marketplace etc. This forti cation is today given a special brandwith the remains of the old Suleiman-hanmosque, with its brickminaret. Famous travel writer Evliya Çelebi left his precious testimony about Fetislam, noting that its residents were predominantlyTurkishmerchants and craftsmen, and he dubbed it“a house of salvation”. 5 4 iStock / Alexander XXI
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