60 | Moda » Fashion Kostur korseta preko kaputa od teškog, luksuznog štofa A corset frame over a heavy coat of luxurious fabric THE RETURN OF AUSTERE TA I LOR I NG The unplanned chic of a cold Parisian night Autumn announces the arrival of the accentuated lines of jackets, coats and blazers – but this time they have more sensual styling than ever before When it comes to fashion styles, we’ve grownaccustomedtoseductivelyfeminine themes and discreetly tailored pieces being at opposite ends of the scale of fashion elements and thus rarely meeting – or at least not in a planned way. But this autumn’s trends are here to change ourminds: their essence lies in combining the seemingly incompatible. Never before has clothing that borrows its structure from men’s sartorial principles been presented to us so tenderly as it is at the fashion shows devoted to the current season. Jackets, coats and blazers - as the protagonists of style during colder days, are no longer restrained, but rather burst with sex appeal provided by fresh design ideas. When French fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent presented his (then shocking) vision of a woman wearing a man’s tuxedo over a naked body many years ago, he couldn’t have predicted that his fashion house successor, Anthony Vaccarello, would take this idea in a new direction by coupling austere blazers and jackets with ethereal dresses of powder pink tulle. The effect is like when a gentleman lends his jacket to a lady wearing a delicate gown on a cold Parisian night – chic that is unplanned, but not unexpected. Another fashion house with a rich tradition is welcoming the digital age by updating the tailoring DNA that was added to each cut by the founder: we’re referring to Dior, whose brashest feminist creator, Maria Grazia Chiuri, has literally flipped the salon template of Christian’s “New Look” on its head by placing a corset frame over a heavy coat of luxurious fabric. This was simultaneously an homage and a manifesto: Women have long since ceased dressing to catch the eye of some man - but that will happen regardless if they wear these kinds of bold interpretations of masculine/feminine contrast. VirginieViard, the longtime closest associate ofKaiser Karl and current reigning creative leader at Chanel, is very familiar with the style lingo of the famous Lagerfeld and the legendary Coco, which is why she’s providing newenergy to the postulates of Chanel charmthat’s DIORDIOR FOTO: Profimedia.rs / Rick Gold / Capital pictures FOTO: Profimedia.rs / Rick Gold / Capital pictures
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