Belgrade » Beograd | 73 Od Zemunske pijace do šik knjižare From Zemun market to chic bookshops Jasmina Šupeljak, Influenserka i spisateljica Zemun je moj „hood“ – tu sam odrasla i, uprkos tome što sam se u međuvremenu preselila u drugi deo grada, svaki put kad prođem njegovom nostalgičnom kalrdrmom, obuzme me osećaj da, kako kaže nepotpisana moderna mudrost, što se stvari više menjaju, one ostaju iste. No, ako bih baš morala da biram polaznu tačku sa koje ću početi svoje turističko iskustvo u gradu koji znam kao svoj džep, izabrala bih baš to mesto kojeme je izgradilo u opasnu curu kakva sam danas. Dakle, na početku ovog izmaštanog obilaska Beograda vidim sebe kako kupujem cveće i rolovani sremački sir na Zemunskoj pijaci. Tamo je i „Pretop“, mesto gde se sreću pečenje i mehurići šampanjca onako kako samo to ova geografska tačka može. Po lepom danu predložila bih da nakon ovog „grešnog branča“ pređete Brankov most peške, ne samo da se sagore kalorije već i zato što je taj pogled kad se dolazi sa novobeogradske strane nezamenljiv. Obavezna stanica je butik Marije Tarlać. Epicentar urbane elegancije probranih sezonskih komada takođe je i odlično mesto da pronađete neki fenomenalno dizajniran detalj za kuću ili nešto od garderobe za klince. Odmah iza ćoška je knjižara „Booka“, mesto gde rame uz rame na policama od poda do plafona stoje naslovi najaktuelnijih svetskih autora, kao i literarni heroji iz zemlje i regiona. Retkumešavinu kafe nabavljam u „Kofeinu“ preko puta, pa sa tim (i naramkom knjiga) odlazim na novu adresu kultnog „Cveća zla“ u Hotelu „Indigo“, čija je ekipa (re)definisala pojmove ugostiteljstva kod nas. Sa jelovnika biram tartar biftek i omiljenu malvaziju, okuplja se ekipa, komentarišu se autfiti i dok pogledam na sat, već je kasno. Taksi je naravno nemoguće naći, ali robusne „Bottege“ su napravljene za velike korake kroz neonom osvetljene ulice. Jasmina Šupeljak, influencer andwriter Zemun is my “hood” – that’s where I grew up, and despite the fact that I’ve moved to a different part of the city in themeantime, every time I traverse its nostalgic cobbledstreets, I’movercome by the feeling that, as the anonymous pieceofmodernwisdomgoes, “themore things change, the more they stay the same”. Still, if I simply had to pick a startingpoint formy tourist experience ina city that I know likemy own backyard, I would choose precisely the place that mademe thedangerous temptress I am today. So, at the start of this imagined tour of Belgrade, I see myself buying flowers and rolledSremac cheese atZemunMarket. Also located there is Pretop [restaurant], a place where roasted meatsandchampagnebubblescometogether as they only could in this geographical point. On a nice day, I would suggest following this “sinful brunch” by walking across Branko’s Bridge, not just to burn calories, but also because that viewwhen heading from the New Belgrade side is inimitable. A “must” stop is the boutique Marija Tarlać. The epicentre of urban elegance, with select seasonal pieces, it’s alsoanexcellent place todiscover some fantasticallydesigneddetails for thehome or something for a kids’ wardrobe. Right around the corner is the bookshop Booka, a place where titles of the world’smostpopular contemporaryauthors and literary heroes of our country and the region are stacked side by side, on shelves that extend fromfloor to ceiling. I buy a rare coffeeblendacross the street at Koffein, and with that (and an armful of books) I head to the newaddressof the iconicCvećaZla [winebar] atHotel Indigo. Fromthemenu I choose steak tartare andmy favourite Malvasia, the teamgathers, comments on outfits aremade, and it’s already late by the time I check the clock. It’s impossible tofinda taxi, of course, butmy sturdyBottegabootsweremadeforwalking, inbigstrides, overneon-litstreets. Zemun jemoj „hood“ – tu samodrasla i, uprkos tome što sam se preselila u drugi deo grada, uvek mu se vraćam sa nostalgijom Zemun is my “hood” – that’s where I grew up, and despite the fact that I’ve moved to a different part of the city, I always return to it with a sense of nostalgia
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