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74 | Moskva Tryborscht at CafePushkin Osnovni sastojak ruskog jela je vreme, a posebno intrigira uputstvo „posle šest sati ponovo skinuti penu“ The essential ingredient of every Russian dish is time, and especially intriguing is the instruction: “After six hours remove the foamagain” Er Srbija leti 10 puta nedeljno iz Beograda za Moskvu Air Serbia ies 10 times a week from Belgrade to Moscow Moscow 2.50’ Sheremetyevo Trajanje leta Aerodrom Flight time Airport Ruska trpeza preferira ono što teče, ali se timene ograničava. Neviđen izbor zakuski i nečuvena ponuda supa čine da ruska kuhinja nije siromašnija od njene književnosti. Nevolja je što se obe teško prevode. Ruskukuhinju je teže razumeti nego simulirati. Počnimo s timda je osnovni sastojak ruskog jela – vreme. Na svemu možete da štedite osim na vremenu. Hiljadu godina Rusija nikuda nije žurila, a kada su počeli da je požurujune bi li se petoletka ispunila za četiri godine, pojavile su se pihtije od stolarskog tutkala. Sovjetskakuhinja jemožda i bilaprostodušna, ali nikakoprosta – niko nije znao šta je to dospevalo u „stolne“ kotlete, gde je to običavao da pliva „riblji sastojak“, odkakve faunesespravljao „turistički doručak“. Pravi patriotski jelovnik okrenut je večnosti i dobar deo zaprema gotovljenje pihtija, u čijem receptu posebno intrigira uputstvo „posle šest sati ponovo skinuti penu“. Bogat šči i boršč se kuvajudva dana u tri bujona. Kaša se utrpava ukožuh i pari, kao da je nazebla. Da bi se napeklo peljmena, treba sačekati zimu. Najbrže se kuva osobita čorba od žive ribe, ali za to vam treba udica. Nije ni čudo što ruskahrananije imala uspeha u inostranstvu. Ona je kao ćirilica: s jedne strane suviše samosvojna, a sdrugenedovoljnoegzotična. TheRussiantableprefersthatwhich ows, but is not limitedby that. Agreat selection of snacks and an unprecedented o er of soups ensure that Russian cuisine is not poorer than its literature. The trouble is that they are both di cult to translate. Russian cuisine is tougher to understand than to simulate. Let’s start with the fact that the essential ingredient of Russian cuisine is - time. You can save on everything else, except that. For a thousand years Russia hasn’t rushed anywhere, and when they started making a frenzy over it, in order for the ve-year plan to be ful lled in four years, aspic jelly (a dish where ingredients are set into a gelatin made from a meat stock or consommé) fromcarpenter’s glue appeared. Soviet cuisinewas perhaps simple-spirited, but in no way simple – no one knew what had fallen into the“table”cutlets,where“ shy ingredients”used to swim, what kind of faunawas used to prepare a “tourist breakfast”. A real patriotic menu is turned towards eternity, a good part of which is covered by aspic jelly, which has a recipe that includes theespecially intriguing instruction:“After sixhours, remove the foamagain”. Rich shchi (a cabbage soup) and borscht are cooked for two days in three broths. The mush (a thick porridge) is stu ed into skin, and steamed. To cook dumplings we should wait for winter. The fastest dish to cook is a special thick soup from live sh, but for that you need a hook. And it’s no wonder that Russian food has had no success abroad. It’s like Cyrillic: on the one hand it is too unique, but on the other it isn’t exotic enough. Probajte boršč kodPuškina KAFE PUŠKIN Najbolji boršč služi se u kafeu Puškin  Gde se nalazi: Tverski bulevar 26A  Koliko košta: Šolja: 7 evra; zdela: 16 evra  Radno vreme: Od 12 do 24 h PUSHKIN CAFE The best borscht in Moscow is served at the Pushkin Cafe  Where is it: Tverskoi blvd, 26A  How much: Cup: 7 evra Bowl: 16 evra  Working hours: Od 12 do 24 h CULINARY WEEKEND gastro vikend iStock / rudisill

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