98 | / sculpture, ballet and music. As a designer, I have to look at everything that surrounds me. Sometimes I’m inspired by a good lm, sometimes by someone’s personality. But fashion remains an applied art, which means it also has to have that commercial undertone. If it doesn’t come to life on the streets, fashion doesn’t exist. It is true that during some moments it was close to the classical arts, and many designers irtedwith that. But it turns out that, in order to survive, it has to appear on the streets. Has thedevelopment of these large systems led to a decline in the numberof “individuals” infashion; those creators whose names already meant a lot, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Versace etc.? -Accordingtomanystatisticsandstudies that I’vemonitored, thesegreat systems becametheleadersinclothing.Today, forexample,H&Mholds rstplace,whilePradaor Gucci are tenth.That fact alone testi es suf- ciently to the extent to which those who remainedconsistent interms thebeautyof art in fashion have been repressed. Fortunately, they still survive to a greater or lesser extent, but they’ve had to adapt to the present day. The new era imposes the notion that everything is a commodity and everythingmust be sold. And, unfortunately, everything heads towards the commercial line andthe fact thatbalancesheetshave to be satis ed. Individuality is lost in such a race. That is simply the result of consumer society. Is there still someone in the fashion world today with whomthatartistic line isdominant? - Absolutely, yes. Comme de Garçons is one of them. It is a brand that cultivates total art. Then there’s Vivienne Westwood, or Yamamoto. His collections simply exude with thatkindofweirdness.Theyalsohave sales lines, but an artistic note is reallystrongly feltwhentheydoauthorial collections. Something has to be spectacular in order to get attention today.Wheredospectacleand fashion intersect? - I had many visions as a young designer, but they often cost a lot. I consequentlythought itwasenough to showcase my fashion and that it wasn’tnecessarytomakesomespectacle of the show. However, it is true that it has todaybecome essential to make a spectacle, as the human eye seekssensation.That’snotdi cult for me personally, because I nd it interesting to present my work through performance. However, one must rst work on quality in order to get some sensation. As such, I rst think about what I’m going to do, and only then how. That’s because a spectacle in of itself losesmeaning. Contentmust exist, andonlythenbeshaped.Therecan’tbeone without the other. Recycledmaterialsareoftenusedtoday. Howmuch do they have an in- uence on fashion and to what extent do they form style? - Everything is increasingly turning towards environmental awareness. Technology is going so far that one often can’t see thedi erencebetweenrealandarti cialmaterials in many respects. Arti cial fur looks so convincing that I can’t say it’s not animal furuntil I touchit. Environmental awareness leads to us no longer having to kill animals tomake fur, but rather those arti cial ones can look good and attractive. What level is Serbian fashion at? - Belgradehasalways stoodout for the fact that people here knew how to recognisewhat’sbeautiful. Ithasalwaysbeenthe centreof fashion in theBalkans.Womenalwaysdressedwithstyle inourenvironment. Quitesimply,wehavedevelopedthatgene for beauty. Today, however, hyper-productionhasprevailed.Manyhavebecomecreatorssimplybecauseit’sattractiveorbecause theyhavethe nances. It thushappens that the wife of some footballer wakes up one morninganddecidestobecomeadesigner. Well, thatcan’thappenlikethat!Onedoesn’t becomea fashiondesigner overnight.That requiresa longprocessofdevelopment. It is only because of this that the Serbian fashion scene has become repugnant. I would like to see it de ne itself and for the fashion industry to return towhere itwas in the ‘80s, and for everyonewho’s really relevant to stay where they are. What is beauty? - Beauty is in charisma.With charisma, beauty receives a new spirit and becomes visible.That’sbecauseacharismaticperson alsoradiateswithbeauty.Whethertheywork on a construction site or in a theatre, charisma makes them di erent and beautiful, bringingthemto lightandcomplementing them. It is only then that the ordinary eye also recognises beauty. U Parizu se više nego uspešno predstavio na jednoj od platformi tamošnje nedelje mode In Paris he presented himself more than successfully on one of the platforms of the French capital’s Fashion week
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MzExMjc5