88 | na meniju, a roštilj iznosi majstor iz mesare Lenče. Šveđanke zagledaju zalogajčiće odmlevenogmesa, kako im ćevape Ljuba servira obraćajući im se na njihovom maternjom jeziku. Ženice su u šoku, iako je objašnjenje fenomena krajnje logično: Ljuba je godinama radio u Geteborgu. Kako bi doručak s nogu bio balansiran, na redu za probu je ajvar, uz koji dobijaju i recept za spravljanje. Međutim, nijedna se ne obazire na to što priča Ruža, a Ksenija prevodi, jer pomno ispituju ukus žitke smese iz teglice. Izrazi lica govore da nije loše... E, sad je vreme da se zaslade, na šta Šveđanke poskakuju od radosti. Ugostiteljski objekat je zapravo kiosk, odakle se smeši lice sredovečne Slavice. Ona hitro vadi tepsiju i u njoj komada urmašice, tulumbe, baklave, kadaif... Slavica uživa dok ih gleda zanete u poslastice. „Kako su lepe“, nemože da odoli a da gošćama ne uputi kompliment. Šveđanke je razumeju i bez prevoda, i to po razneženom osmehu. Onda se Osi ponavlja isti peh: sa viljuške joj spadne nekoliko rezanaca kadaifa. Tada slučajnoj publici priređuje kulturološki šok: papirnimubrusom čisti rezultat svoje žurbe sa pločnika. Da je tu sad Dragutin, odmah bi je isprosio. Pune energije, Šveđanke završavaju obilazak Kalenić pijace, i dalje se smejući. Šta im se najviše dopalo, pitamo ih. Opet su sve saglasne i kažu: atmosfera, a tek onda burek i poslastice, po čemu se ne razlikuju od drugih turista, kako objašnjava Ksenija. Šta će biti presudno da ponovo dođu u Srbiju, ne znamo. Ali horski tvrde da će se to sigurno dogoditi. I don’t knowwhat to tell you, Anna, this doesn’t look like anything I’ve ever eaten,”says Janet to her friend Ana as shemunches a pork rind in her mouth. Ana doesn’t even dare to try those “weird cubes of fatty meat” because she’s repulsed by the look, so she simply frowns and rolls her eyes. The sceneprovides unusual entertainment for 60-year-oldDragutin, who has spent decades selling driedmeat products at Kalenić Market. He also likes the fact that this group of six Swedish women have deviated from the usual market scenes, where everyone rushes with the aim of buying something. And they wander without any purpose, other than to have a good time, under the scope of an alternative food tasting tour of Belgrade markets for tourists. Dragutin is acquainted with Ksenija Kastratović, who leads these Farmers market food tasting culinary travels (Walking Belgrade tour). That’s why he feels free to ask her if “these merry blondes are taken”. When she translates thequestion for them, they all giggle and showo theirwedding rings. “Nowwe see each other once a year and travel together,”says Anna. They always visit some di erent country with customs that they want to discover, and in some cases participate in. For them, coming from the north of Europe, Čvarci pork rind crisps are themost exotic itemon themorningbu et, which is actually awalk amongmarket stalls. Everything here is colourful with the fruits of autumn - red bell peppers, purple aubergines, white blossoming cauli ower, light green cabbage heads... and the appetite is also awakened by rich aromas, while attention is attracted by the shouts of traders. “Come on over here,” says an exhilarated Mile fromObrenovac, a seller of cheeses and curds, enticingourhappysextet.Hequicklymoves fromwords todeeds, extractinga lumpof young‘kajmak’milk curd froma tub, o ering themabowl withhis bumpy ngers.“Mmmm”, they comment one after another as the creamy mass melts on their palates. Anna has no other option than to admit that it is“the best ever tasted”. One customer considers themselves invited to explain the di erence between old and young kajmak, in uent English. During this time, Mile contents himself with the claim that everything is okay, and doesn’t miss out on the opportunity to also o er goat’s whey. The Swedes reject theo er, as gracefully anda ectionately as theydoeverythingelse. In truth, it is theburekpiethat knocks themo theirEuropeantracks, asa truerepresentativeof theOrient. They end up smeared in grease up to their elbows, because“burek is eatenwith hands, without cutlery,”as Ivan thebaker suggests. His olden stylepie shop is full because it’s breakfast time, and all the customers curiously watch the Swedish ladies. Ossa excels in everything. She tries to grab a greasy piece of pastry, but its contents fall fromher fork. She then she accepts thebaker’s advice, taking a newslice of burekwith three ngers, just as she’s shown by Čeda. She is joined in the tasting session by her friends, albeit more cautiously. On the plate they try thecrispy crust fromthe soft centre.“This is fantastic,”Annaadmits rst,with theothers nodding their heads in approval. Whoever’s been to Serbia and hasn’t tried traditional ćevapčiči mini meat kebab sticks is either a vegetarian or insane. That’s why they’re next on the menu, and the meat is delivered by ameastro from the Lenče Butchers. The Swedish ladies check out themincedmeat snacks served to themby Ljuba, whoaddresses themin their native language.The ladies are in shock, although the explanation for this phenomenon is extremely logical: Ljuba spent years working in Gothenburg. In order to keep their breakfast on the move balanced, next up is for themto sample ajvar pepper chutney, withwhich they also receive a recipe for producing it. However, none of thempay attention towhat Ruža is saying, and Ksenija translating, as they are carefully testing the taste of the chutney mixture from the jar. Their approving facial expressions suggest that it’s not bad… Andnowit’s timetosweetenthingsup,newsofwhichcausesourSwedishladies tojump for joy.Theeaterywevisit is actuallyakiosk, where the smiling faceof themiddle-agedSlavicaawaits. Shequicklyextracts abaking tray containingpieces of traditional oriental desserts – urmašice/kalburabastı walnut cakes, tulumba, baklava, kadaif etc. Slavica enjoyswatching them enthralled by her treats. “How beautiful they are”, they are irresistible, and the guests can’t resits giving a compliment. She understands her Swedish guests without translation, through themediumof delicate smiles. Then Ossa experiences the same bad luck: the noodles of her kadaif fall from her fork. Then she provides the accidental audience with a culture shock: she uses a paper towel to clean the result of her rush from the pavement. If Dragutin had been there at that instant, he would have immediately asked her out. Filled with energy, the Swedish girls complete their tour of KalenićMarket, and they’re still laughing.We ask themwhat they liked the best. They are all again in agreement when they say that the best thing is the atmosphere, only then followed by the burek and desserts, in which – according to Ksenija – they don’t di er from other tourists. We don’t knowwhat will be the crucial factor in them returning to Serbia, but they con rm in choral unison that they surely will. Šta im se najviše dopalo, pitamo ih. Opet su sve saglasne i kažu: atmosfera We ask them what they liked the best. They are all again in agreement when they say that the best thing is the atmosphere