| 27 The rst collection of Christian Dior, shown in 1947, differedsomuchfromeverythingthathadeverbeenseen until then that the main question in the fashion world waswhat kindof linehewould launchthenext year. Silhouettes with narrowwaistlines, accentuated breasts and wide midi skirts, knownas the“NewLook”, seemedcompletelyunreal after the agonyof thewar years, rationinganddesigns onwhich a collar was considered an arrogant luxury, while silk was used only for parachutes. Dior mercilessly used 20metres of material for a costume and 40metres for luxury evening dresses. His ve minutes had arrived and he didn’t want to waste them. At thebehestofhis family, hestudiedtobecomeadiplomat, although he’d wanted to become an architect. He struggled to persuade them to help him open an art gallery, in which works were exhibited by Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Max Jacob. Thatwas 1928. A long roadwas still ahead to reachhis own fashion house. He worked as a designer, prior to the war for Robert Piguet, andafterwards for LucienLelong, then–withthesupport of textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac – he founded the Dior fashionhouse in1946.Hepresentedhis rstcollectionthefollowingyear,“Corolle andEn8”, whichwould remain rememberedas the“New Look”. “I’ve created a ower woman,”announced Dior. He settled in a house with a garden in Montaigne Street, which he arranged in a style between an atelier studio and a living space. Hewas ledbyhis desire to create a space that di ered fromthe luxurious tailor’s salons located in the famous ChampsÉlysées avenue. Hecontrolled theproductionof hisdesigns from start to nish and didn’t abandon his vision. He adapted the silhouette with the design, dictated the choice of accessories and the occasion for which the dresswas intended. Thosewhowore his designs were left no space for personal expression, and thus noriskthat theywouldvisuallyruinthecreation. Regardlessofhis greatness,wecoulddubhima fashiondictator.At thesametime, theexistenceofhis total designconceptbroughthimpopularity. The public recognised in Dior a label that guarantees elegance. Heapproached fashion likeanarchitect by creatingdresses MODNI OPUS KRISTIJANA DIORA SADRŽAN JE U KOLEKCIJAMA Corolle and 8 (1947), poznata kao New Look Collection; Zig-Zag and Envol (1948); Trompe-l’œil and Milieu de Siècle (1949); Verticale and Oblique (1951); Ovale ou Naturelle and Longue (1951); Sinueuse and Profilée (1952); Tulipe and Vivante (1953); Muguet and H (1954), A and Y (1955); Flèche and Aimant (1956); Libre and Fuseau (1957). THE FASHION OPUS OF CHRISTIAN DIOR IS CONTAINED IN THE COLLECTIONS: “Corolle and 8” (1947), known as the “New Look collection”; “Zig-Zag and Envol”, (1948); “Trompe-l’œil en Milieu de Siècle” (1949); “Verticale and Oblique” (1951); “Ovale ou Naturelle and Longue” (1951); “Sinueuse and Pro lée” (1952); “Tulipe and Vivante” (1953); “Muguet and H” (1954), “A and Y” (1955); “Flèche and Aimant” (1956); and “Libre and Fuseau” (1957). Rože Vivije kreirao je cipele za Diora i pomogao mu da zaokruži total look Roger Vivier created shoes for Dior and helped him round off his total look Kristijan Dior s najskupljom haljinom u svojoj kolekciji Mozart (levo), na reviji u hotelu Savoj u Londonu Christian Dior with the most expensive gown in his entire collection “Mozart” (left), during a fashion show at the Savoy Hotel, London London’s Victoria & Albert Museum is hosting the retrospective exhibition “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams”, which gives reference to the creativity of this famous fashion house since it was founded in 1947. On display are the gowns of the famous Christian, canvas test samples, sketches, as well as designs of the artistic directors who succeeded him