Evermorebrands, fromlarge luxuryones to those small brands, areplacinganemphasisonsustainability and an ethical approach to their production,whether thatbeusingrecycledcomponents, recyclablematerials, or completely eliminating unsustainable materials, such as leather. This theme has already been relevant for several years, and it‘s delightful that this story is including evermore big fashion names, who presented their designs for the Autumn/Winter 21/22 season. The question that arises is whether luxury fashion brands that are known for offering ever-changing seasonal trends, and handbags that are “mandatory for this season”, can even function according to the principle of sustainability. DesignerGabrielaHearst, creative director of fashionhouseChloé, believes they can. Speaking about her new collection, she said that she started with the material and not the silhouette. She first discarded all fabrics made of synthetics and artificial cellulose, then based her designs on materials that are mostly made of cashmere, which is up to 80 per cent recyclable. This fashionhouse‘s usedhandbags are enhancedwith accessoriesmade fromknitted textilewaste fromtheworkshop, while several models of jackets are produced from recycled waste clothes. And if you hadn‘t heard that from Gabriela herself, you wouldn‘t even have noticed by looking at the collection. So, it can be done. Both Stella McCartney and fashion company Kenzo are also emphasising sustainability. McCartney is known for her ethical approach to design. She doesn‘t use artificial materials and utilises non-toxic adhesives to make shoes, while, as a vegan, she‘s never even considered using leather. In her latest collection she offered overalls in the spirit of David Bowie, with psychedelic patterns, robes with T-shirts in a bright cyclamen colour, with sequins and fluttering trapezoidal cut mini dresses. Of course, Stella‘s work always reflects her British heritage, and this time that can be seen in the form of an oversized coat and a jacket with a classic houndstooth pattern and wide plaid trousers. Kenzo is also among the advocates of ethical operations and is promoting sustainable fashion. Its Autumn/ Winter 2021 collection, which is the first to be shown since creator Kenzo Takada died last October, represents a combination of designs from the archives and new designs, andwhat they have in common is richness of form, strong colours and floral prints.The designs simply seem to dance, and as you observe themyou find yourself overwhelmed by the emotion of pure joy. Creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista explains that this is about “possibilities of a new world“, without prejudice, boundaries and stereotypes. He also reminded us that Kenzo has always advocated for freedom, joy, diversity, love for nature and the creating of harmony as opposed to contrasts. But what interests us the most is what we will be wearing next autumn. At the fashionweek events we saw oversized designs contrasted boldly by tight ones that finally emphasise the silhouette after a year spent lounging in tracksuits. Prints again dominate, in the form of a mix of the classic and the graphic, mostly floral. Fluttering dresses, skirts with ruffles and wide-legged trousers. The source of inspiration is a story for itself, from a walk through history in the collection of Louis Vuitton to the playful nature in Kenzo‘s collection, with the stage costumes of Ziggy Stardust seen through the eyes of Stella McCartney. They could be described in three words: feminine, striking and distinctive. Comfort is no longer mentioned, as it has become the standard. Miuccia Prada, Louis Vuitton? Yes, everyone is on the road to sustainability and ethics! And Chanel? Well, it is sustainable in and of itself, and has always been so. Have you ever heard of anyone setting aside or discarding its famous tweed jacket or cult quilted handbag? If you‘re not certain, these are pieces that are made to last, to be given by mothers to their daughters, to be worn or carried until they are worn out, as designs that don‘t acknowledge changing trends. All that‘s left for us to do is to hope that both consumers and designers will unify towards the same goal – and that we can freely forget about the idea of buying clothes just for one occasion. Sustainability » Održivost | 63 SUSTA I NAB I L I T Y ON T HE CATWA L K New fashion era of proper values Recycling, sustainability, design, redesign, fashion as green& clean, creation, aesthetics. You probably never thought you'd read all thosewords in the same sentence, yet in the cradle of style itself, Paris, it is being said that fashion and sustainability are the perfect combination