| 75 1. ANO POLI Two kilometres fromThessaloniki city centre, Ano Poli – the Old City – awaits you as the only remaining part of Thessaloniki from the Ottoman period. With its quiet streets, two-storey buildings and small houses with beautifully landscaped gardens, it represents the soul of Thessaloniki. A speci c atmosphere reigns in Ano Poli, and here you can catch the invisible thread of Thessaloniki life as it once was, while a special enjoyment is walking through paved, winding alleyways, many of which lead to Heptapyrgion Fortress, also known as the Seven towers, which o ers incredible views of the entire city and the Aegean Sea. 2. THESSALONIKI PANORAMA The best way to familiarise yourself with all the beauty of Thessaloniki is at the several scenic observation points around the city, which provide views that instantaneously ll the human soul with warm emotions. The Greeks, as gods of hedonism, have placed good restaurants or bars close to almost every observation point, so you don’t have to“kill” your relaxation with a delicious lunch or a strong frappe, which is their most popular co ee. The most authentic experience is certainly provided by the 76-metre-tall OTE tower at the EXPO Centre, with the Skyline Cafe Bar restaurant at the top providing a panoramic view of the city, while the fact that this cafe bar rotates on its axis once an hour makes it particularly interesting. A beautiful view of the sea, overladen with boats, and the urban bustle of Aristotelous Square, will await you on the top oor of the luxurious Hotel Electra Palace, while you can also enjoy perfect views from the Kitchen Bar, which is one of the favourite gathering places for locals. 3. THESSALONIKI MARKETS You can best acquaint yourself with the speci c atmosphere of Thessaloniki, the locals’ love for food, chatting, noise and smiles, as well as all the colours and scents of this city, on its markets. The city’s two largest markets - Modiano and Kapani - are also its oldest, and are both well-known throughout Europe. A walk through Modiano Market will transport you back to the early 20th century, when it rst emerged. The market was designed in 1922 by architect Eli Modiano, the son of a much-lovedThessaloniki banker, upon his return from studying architecture in Paris. Today its o er includes fresh sh, meat, cheese, exotic spices, fruit and vegetables and succulent olives, while there are also kiosks o ering local food and smoky Greek co ee shops. Literally opposite Modiano Market is its older sister - Kapani Market, which is believed to have existed for over 600 years. 4. AXIOS DELTA NATIONAL PARK If you are a nature lover or simply want a complete reset and to brie y escape the crowds of Thessaloniki, you will be delighted to discover that in close proximity to Thessaloniki is the incredible Axios Delta nature reserve, which is home to four rivers - Axios (Vardar), Aliakmon, Gallikos and Loudias. Here every season o ers something di erent, due to the highly developed and extremely speci c ora and fauna. Close to this reserve that’s ruled by nature are several restaurants that that have adapted their menu to suit the river and seaside environment, so here it’s always recommended that you try oven-roasted salted sh with onion, cuttle sh goulash, mussels with rice, fried shrimps etc. 5. LADADIKA Ladadika is the ancient core of Thessaloniki and the district that best illustrates how the city looked prior to the great re of 1917. This is today the city’s bohemian quarter and dining Mecca, on a par with Belgrade’s Skadarlija or Athens’s Plaka neighbourhood, so it is here that you will probably eat the best that traditional Thessaloniki cuisine has to o er, but also experience a great night out with several glasses of ouzo and the hypnotic rhythms of oriental melodies. Thessaloniki is a city of contrasts; a city with the soul of a child and an old man – simultaneously carefree and wise, lively and tranquil, lled with new possibilities and tried and tested roads, noisy and quiet etc. Solun je grad kontrasta, grad sa dušom deteta i starca – istovremeno neoprezan i mudar, razdragan i smiren, prepun novih mogućnosti i već proverenih puteva, bučan i tih… iStock / kemter iStock / Aivita