62 | / Diplomirali stenačuvenoj akademijiKoefijauRimu. Kako pamtite studentske dane? – Taj period je možda i najviše obeležio ne samo moju karijeru nego i život. Veoma mlad sam otišao u Italiju i tamo sam odrastao, stekao važna uverenja i estetske principe, pamoji roditelji znaju da unajpozitivnijemsmislu kažu da su me Latini pokvarili. Svaki povratak u Italiju je novo rađanje jer se vraćam prvoj ćeliji, od koje su nastale sve priče. A moj susret sa modom je bio poput velikog praska. Kao student odlazili ste u studije Diora i Valentina. Šta ste tamo naučili? – To bi se danas zvalo vork šopovi, a ranije se nazivalo posete. U Dioru i Valentinu negovali su čarobne zanatlije, koje nisu sprovodile u delo samo neku ideju već su od parčeta tkanine i nekoliko začinskih elemenata pravili nestvarne stvari koje su deo modne istorije. Ma koliko da se razlikujemo po tržištu i mogućnostima, trudio sam se da ta iskustva prenesem u svoj atelje. Kako je izgledalo kreiranje prve kolekcije? – Prva ozbiljna priča desila se na Nedelji visoke mode u Rimu, davne 1992, kada je nas nekoliko studenata predstavljaloakademiju i svojekolekcije. Inspiracija jebio Luj Četrnaesti, kralj Sunce. Odjednom sam se suočio sa sudom javnosti, prešao put od skice do revije i bio veoma zadovoljan jer sam nešto završio. Inače, imam strah od nedovršenog. Sećam se i da je moj tata sedeo u smokingu u drugom redu i to je meni bilo veoma važno. Posle je sve išlo svojim tokom. Uapriluove godine predstavili ste se na45. „Pervol fešn viku“ u Beogradu, i to modelom inspirisanimMilenom Dravić... gained important convictions and aesthetic principles, and my parents sometimes say in themost positive sense that the‘Latins’spoiled me. Every return to Italy is like being reborn, because I return to the rst cell fromwhichall stories emerged. Andmy encounterwith fashion was like a big bang. Asastudent,youwentonplacementsatthestudiosofDiorand Valentino.What did you learn there? “Thatwouldtodaybecalled“workshops”,whileearlier itwascalled “visits”. At Dior and Valentino they nurtured magical craftsmen who didn’t only convert some idea into a creation, but rather used a piece of fabric and some spicy elements to create unbelievable things that have become part of fashion history. Whatwas it like to create your rst collection? “The rst serious storyoccurredatHauteCoutureWeek inRome, way back in 1992, when a few of us students represented the academy and our collections. The inspiration was Louis XIV, the Sun King. I suddenly found myself confronting the judgement of the public, passed the journey from sketches to show, and was very satis ed to have nished something. I generally have a fear of things being left un nished. I also remember that my dad sat in a tuxedo in the second row and that was very important to me. Afterwards, everything owed in its own way. This April saw you present yourself at the 45th Pervol Fashion Week in Belgrade, and you did so with a model inspired byMilenaDravić... “Despiteher actingprowess, shewas always“thatMilenaDravić”, and beside her was inevitably her husbandDraganNikolić.Whenwe received the theme, I decided that the model would be in the spirit of the show“Cheek to cheek”, which they presented together. Milena should be among the vanguard of our role models. I wouldn’t want to sound sentimental, but she didn’t only leave a greatmark as an actress, rather also as a person. Themodel thatwaswornon the catwalkbyOliveraKovačević depicts a story aboutMilena. What secrets are hidden behind your other dresses? “Each dress has its own unique I.D. number. There are those that left the workshop without stress and appeared as though they demandeda lotof time.Therewerealsodresses that seemedtobemade quickly,butbehindwhicharedaysofwork. I’mreallyprivilegedtohave my own people and together we’re some kind of strange fellowship. Weunderstandeachother on the y and resolve things quickly, even when we have to make a 154-piece topcoat. When we nished the job, I asked them where the pattern was for the coat’s cut, because wekeepthepatterns for allmodels. Inunisonthey toldme that they’d thrown it away, so that it would never cross my mind for us to make something similar again [laughs].” Howdid you fall in lovewith fashion in the rst place? “I fell in love primarily with art, partly because of my family surroundings. My family wasn’t vocationally orientated towards art, but in it there was always a need for that kind of spiritual nutrition. I rst graduated fromgraphicdesign school, and thenheaded in thedirectionof fashion. Itwasaprivilegeformetobeabletostudyatoneof the best fashion schools in theworld and to experience fashion as a very inspirational and interesting eld. I’venever been in lovewith fashion inthesenseofmanifestation. I fell inlovewithitas inartisticdiscipline.” You claimthatwomen inSerbiahave agift for fashion, but also that therearemenwho followfashionanddepart fromthe expected. Aren’t you in that group? “I’ma step away fromwearing that uniform. Duringmy studies, I liked to experiment, but I never wanted to go to any kind of extreme. Andwhile I like to skip certain boundaries inmy work, I’ve long since naileddownmystyle. I’maboringmanindarkbluecoloursandmy favourite is always a shirt. Mywife tellsme shedoesn’t knowhowmany of them I have, whilemy friends say they all look like onemodel.” Napravio je fascinantni mantil od čak 154 dela He has made a fascinating 154-piece topcoat
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