Jun

| 61 Dizajner Igor Todorović kreiragotovo tri decenije. Spajajući znanje i talenat, osmislio jemodni izraz, koji krase elegancija, ženstvenost i originalna rešenja u koja su utkani njegovi životni principi. Za njega je moda umetnost. – Reč moda, od latinskog modus, znači način i kada se okrenete etimologiji, pronaći ćete gomilu načina neverbalne, vizuelne, estetske i koloritne komunikacije, što potvrđuje da je ona umetnost. Masovnaproizvodnja, ugrožavanježivotnesredine i eksploatacijaradnikauvelikimmodnimkompanijama danas su gorući problemi? – Mi, srećom, nismo uprljani tom problematikom. Pojedine svetske kuće jesu izgubile etiku, i to je problemuslovljen globalizacijomi potrebomda se pokriju velika tržišta. Održiva moda je veoma važna. Dobro je što prepoznajemdapojedini ljudi odbijaju da sarađuju sa kućama koje zanemaruju etiku i ne žele da nose njihove stvari. Da li je našimdizajnerima teženegokreatorima u inostranstvu? – Nama definitivno ne nedostaje kreativnosti, ali nam nedostaju mogućnosti koje su uslovljene tržištem. Još jedna otežavajuća okolnost je to što mi sa svetom teže komuniciramo onlajn jer na tom polju i dalje istražujemo. Kada odete u Italiju, shvatite da je modapronašlaglobalni kodkomunikacije. Da li su vaši planovi vezani za svetsko tržište? – Veoma bih voleo da se ozbiljnije i šire predstavim svetu. Radim na tome i to jeste plan za budućnost, ali svet ide previše brzo da bih znao sve nove korake. Na neke od njih nisam ni spreman, ali je važno uvek ići napred jer svako putovanje počinje prvim korakom. Kada je reč o vašim kolegama, da li biste nečiji rad posebno izdvojili? – Moj večno zapisani kontakt je onaj sa Đanfrankom Fereom, koga sam sreo u Parizu. Upoznao sam tada izuzetno zanimljivog čoveka. Na Pjaca Mijaneli samValentinu Garivaldiju sramežljivo postavio nekoliko pitanja, a zatim sam razmišljao da li su bila dostojna tako velikog čoveka. Moj omiljeni dizajner je i Kristobal Balensijaga, čije je izražavanje mode fantastično. Ma koliko bio čudan Džeremi Skot, kreativni direktor Moskina, izvanredna je modna pojava. Volim luksuz Toma Forda, a izdvojio bih i Fridu Đanini, bivšu kreativnu direktorku Gučija. He acquired his knowhowat a prestigious academy in Italy, and at his Belgrade studio he shapes creations of sophisticated aesthetics. Hidden behind his designs is a love for fashion as an art form Designer Igor Todorović has been creating for almost three decades.Bycombininghisknowhowandtalent,hedevised afashionexpressionthat’scharacterisedbyelegance, femininity and original solutions, into which his life principles are woven. For him, fashion is art. “Theword‘moda’[fashion], fromthe Latinmodus, means‘method’, and when you turn to etymology, you will nd a multitude of methods of non-verbal, visual, aesthetic and colourful communication that con rms that it is art.” Mass production, threats to the environment and the exploitationofworkersbymajor fashioncompanies areburning issues today. “Fortunately,wearenotbesmirchedbythis issue. Individual fashionhouses around theworldhave lost their ethics and that’s a problem conditioned by globalisation and the need to cater to large markets. Sustainable fashion is very important. It isgood thatwecan recognise that certainpeoplearerefusingtocooperatewith fashionhousesthatneglecttheirethicsand don’t want to wear their products.” Are conditions more di cult for our designersthanforcreatorsabroad? “We de nitely don’t lack creativity, butwedo lackopportunities thatareconditionedbythemarket. Another aggravating condition is that it’smoredi cultforustocommunicateonlinewiththeworld,becausewearestillonlyexploringthis eld. When you go to Italy, you realise that fashion has found a global code of communication.” Are your plans linked to the world market? “I would really love to present myself to the world more seriously and in a broader way. I’m working on that and it is a plan for the future, but the world’s moving too fast for me to know all the new steps. I’m not even ready for some of them, but it’s always important to move forward, because every journey starts with rst steps.” When it comes to your colleagues, is there anyone in particularwhosework youwould single out? “My eternally inscribed contact is with Gianfranco Ferré, whom I met in Paris. I met a very interesting man then. At Piazza Mianella, I timidlyaskedValentinoGaribaldiafewquestions, thenlaterwondered if they were even worthy of such a great man. My favourite designer is Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose expressiveness in fashion is fantastic. Regardless of how strange he is, Jeremy Scott, the creative director of Moschino, is an exceptional phenomenon in fashion. I love the luxuriousness of TomFord, and I would also single out Gucci’s former creative director Frieda Giannina. YougraduatedfromRome’sfamousKoe aInternationalFashionAcademy. Howdo you recall your student days? “Thatperiodperhapshadthegreatest impactnotonlyonmycareer, but alsoonmy life. I went to Italy very young andmatured there, JASAM DOSADNI ČOVEKU TEGETBOJI I’MA BORING MAN INDARK BLUE Znanje je sticao na prestižnoj akademiji u Italiji, a u svom beogradskom ateljeu stvara kreacije istančane estetike. Iza njegovih modela krije se ljubav prema modi kao umetnosti Tekst / Words: Jelena R. Milenković Fotografije / Photography: Vesna Lalić

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