28 | nija dubrovačkih trgovaca, koji su u Beograd došli tokom 16. i 17. veka i podstakli privredu grada. I danas, kad se spuštate peške niz Ulicu kralja Petra, oseća se živi duh velikog grada, a iza svakog današnjeg radnika ili vlasnika radnje stoje generacije prethodnika, trgovaca, koji su, kao i ovi današnji, čistili izloge, ukrašavali, pozivali komšije i kupce da svrate i vide šta nude. CARA DUŠANA BROJ U Cara Dušana 10 nalazi se i najstarija sačuvana kuća u Beogradu. Kuća je izgrađena 1727, u vreme kada je počela austrijska vladavina Beogradom i kada je počela arhitektonska evropeizacija Beograda. Graditelj kuće bio je Švajcarac Nikola Doksat deMorez, koji je imao zadatak da obnovi i ojača kalamegdansko utvrđenje. Ali ono što kuću čini još intrigantnijomod njene starosti su navodno lagumi i podrumi kroz koje je moguće doći do Kalemegdanske tvrđave. Kakva bi to šetnja bila podzemnim Beogradom da se uđe u tu kuću i stigne do Kalemegdana, može se samo pretpostaviti. MALI AMAM Na adresi CaraDušana 45 nalazi se javno kupatilo nastalo još za vreme turske vladavine. „Mali amam“, kako su ga Turci zvali, na toj je adresi od 1863. U središtu kupatila nalazi se kružni bazen, amam i manji pravougaoni bazen, koji se punio hladnomvodom. Orijentalnu senzualnu naviku javnog banjanja nasledili su mlađi Beograđani. Javno kupatilo obnovili su 1901. ugledni beogradski trgovci, braća Krsmanović. KING PETER ANDDUSHAN’S ST Dorćol was once all of Belgrade, and the junction of the streets named after Emperor Dušan and King Peter, which continues into Dubrovnik Street, determined the name of theentireneighbourhood.‘Dort jol’means four roads in Turkish, and this crossroads was the main shopping hub of European Turkey, as it ledtoIstanbul,Vidin,ViennaandDubrovnik.The history of this crossroads also shows the terrible times for life inBelgrade, because theTurks displayed the severed heads of all the disobedient there. During the period of Turkish rule in Belgrade, themain street, mainmarket, was Kralja Petra Street, and it was then called Glavna [Main],Trgovačkaulica [Merchants’Street]. It was divided into three parts: themainmarket, Zerek and Dorćol. The main market extended fromtheCathedral Church to the corner of Knez Mihailova and Kralja Petra. Downhill, along the street toTsara Dušana Street, sprawled Zerek, the most active part of the city, with traders, whileDorćol extended fromDušan’s street towardstheDanube.Today’sDubrovačkaStreet wasacolonyofmerchants fromDubrovnikwho came to Belgrade during the 16th and 17th centuries and stimulated the city’s economy. And still today, as youheaddownKraljaPetraStreet on foot, you can feel the spirit of the great city, andstandingbehindeveryshopworkerorowner today are generations of predecessors, traderswho, likethoseof today, cleanedthedisplay cases and added decorations, inviting neighbours and customers to drop by and see what they have to o er. TSARA DUŠANA #10 At number 10 Tsara Dušana Street stands the oldest preserved house in Belgrade. It was built in1727,whichmarkedthestartofAustrian ruleoverBelgrade,butalsothetimewhenthearchitectural EuropeanisationofBelgradebegan. ThehousewasconstructedbySwissnativeNikola Doksat de Morez, who was also tasked with restoringandreinforcingKalamegdanFortress. However,whatmakes thishouseevenmore intriguing than its age are the alleged caves and cellarsthroughwhichit ispossibletoaccessKalemegdan Fortress. LITTLE HAMMAM At45TsaraDušanaStreetwasapublicbaths createdduringthetimeofOttomanruleoverBelgrade.The“LittleHammam”,astheTurkscalledit, hasbeenlocatedatthisaddresssince1863.Atthe centreof thebaths isacircularpool, ahammam, and a smaller rectangular pool that’s lled with cold water. The oriental sensual habit of public bathing was also inherited by later Belgraders. These public baths were renovated in 1901 by the Krsmanović brothers. Belgrade has been home to Celts, Romans, Turks, Greeks, Tsintsare, Jews et al. And they all left their tracesmostly inDorćol, that junction of roads and the capital city’s history U Beogradu su živeli Kelti, Rimljani, Turci, Grci, Cincari, Jevreji... A svi su ostavili trag najviše na Dorćolu, toj raskrsnici puteva i istorije glavnog grada Na adresi Cara Dušana 45 nalazi se javno kupatilo At 45 Tsara Dušana Street was a public baths
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