Moscow » Moskva | 97 mosphere of Bulgakov’s life during that period – a time of poverty and obscurity, but also of expectations and his first literary successes. The initial layout of the flat from the 1920s has been preserved. It comprises a corridor, the White Hall, a kitchen, Bulgakov’s room, the living room, the Blue study and a space for temporary exhibitions. On display are items that belonged to Bulgakov’s family, including manuscripts and photos. While walking up the stairs, don’t forget to leave a message: it is highly recommended that you write your wishes and quotes on the walls here. To ensure that visitors don’t forget that dark forces are in control of apartment #50, there is a glass bottle just outside the door in which you can put some coins for Annushka to buy sunflower oil. You never know what the next twist of fate may be, and you might well appease her spirit to ease your own path. It is not difficult to see the place where the oil was spilled – all you need to do is head for the Patriarch’s Ponds nearby, where the mystical events took place. At the sunset hour of one warm spring day two men were to be seen at Patriarch’s Ponds. Thus begins Bulgakov’s The Master and Margarita. The Patriarch’s Ponds are just a couple of streets away from Sadovaya Street and the museums are well worth a visit. Now an affluent area of Moscow, in modern times the ‘ponds’ have been reduced to one simple oak-tree lined pond bordered by attractive buildings, walkways and various benches on which to daydream. A tongue-in-cheek sign proclaiming it is ‘Forbidden to speak with strangers’ offers a nod to the spot’s literary heritage. Bulgakov often visited the location and is rumoured to have wooed his second and third wives under the dappled light of the overhanging trees. If you fancy a bite to eat, head over to Cafe Margarita, which draws its inspiration from the novel. The first cooperative cafe in Moscow, its old-fashioned décor, home-cooked Russian cuisine and live music from classically trained musicians make for a delightful evening. It’s worth booking a table in advance. U stanu ćete pronaći neke autorove lične predmete, kao i ilustracije njegovih dela In the apartment you’ll find some of the author’s personal items, as well as illustrations of his works U svom najve emdelu Bulgakov spaja satiru, fantastiku, realizam i grotesku In his greatest work, Bulgakov combines satire, fantasy, realism and the grotesque Bulgakov nije doživeo sopstvenu slavu, ali se danas smatra jednim od najve ih ruskih pisaca 20. veka Bulgakov didn’t live to experience his own fame, but he’s today considered one of Russia’s greatest 20th century authors