90 | / Patišpanj: Mek kao duša, žut kao pile Kako mu koreni sežu do 15. veka, patišpanj je zasigurno najstariji kolač u Srbiji i sigurno prvi koji je nazvan tortom. Neobično ime potiče od španskog naziva za slatki hleb, sunđerasti kolač – pan di spanga, koji je na ove prostore stigao sa Sefardima, Jevrejima koji su u srednjem veku proterani iz Španije. Najviše Sefarda stiglo je u Sarajevo, odakle se i do Srbije brzo raširila priča o kolaču „mekom kao duša i žutom kao pile“. Radoznale žene željne novina usvojile su jednostavan kolač od jaja. Tajna do tada neviđenog, laganog i vazdušastog testa bila je u svežim jajima i snažnoj ruci domaćice, koja je morala dugo i uporno da ih muti uz dodavanje šećera i brašna. Patišpanj je toliko dugo u Srbiji da se ponegde već naziva i drevnim srpskim kolačem. Naročito je bio popularan u mestima zapadne Srbije, gde se pravio u svakoj prilici. Kada se rodi i krsti dete, kada mladić krene u vojsku, kada se svadbuje ili kada se na drugi svet ispraćaju najmiliji, i naravno, na Božić, patišpanj se uvek spremao, iznosio na trpezu ili nosio na poklon. With roots dating back to the 15th century, Patišpanj sponge cake is certainly the oldest cake in Serbia and undoubtedly the rst to be called a cake. The unusual name derives from the Spanish name for sweet bread, sponge cake - Pan di Spanga, which came to these parts in the memories of the Sephardic Jews who were expelled from Spain in the Middle Ages. Most of the Sephardim arrived in Sarajevo, from where the story of the cake that’s Vasina torta: Hvala dragomzetu Autentična srpska poslastica nastala u Paraćinu, varošici u centralnoj Srbiji, nazvana je Vasina torta. Stara je 120 godina i recept se pripisuje veoma finoj dami koja je bila sposobna domaćica, uzorna supruga i brižna majka. Obožavala je svoju kćer jedinicu Jelenu, u koju se zaljubio nešto stariji, ali uvaženi i imućni gospodin Vasa. Kako je tada bivalo, bila je prosidba, potom i svadba, a onda je mlada gospođa ostala u drugom stanju. Nežne građe i krhkog zdravlja, Jelena je teško podnosila trudnoću, a lokalni lekari zabrinuto odmahivali glavom. Zaljubljeni muž se nije premišljao, već je sakupio sav novac koji je imao, ostatak pozajmio, i sa mladom ženom se zaputio u Beč kod čuvenog lekara, koji je spasao majku i dete. Radosna vest je brzo stigla u srpsku varošicu, a presrećna i zahvalna tašta je svom zetu u čast pripremila novu poslasticu i nazvala je njegovim imenom. Njeno ime se ne pamti, ali je zato svom plemenitom zetu Vasi odala najslađu počast, a nama ostavila zanosni ukus torte s orasima, jednim filom i čvrstim belim snegom od kuvanih belanaca. This authentic Serbian dessert originated in Paraćin, a small city in central Serbia, and is called Vasa’s Cake. The cake is 120 years old and the recipe is attributed to a very ne lady who was a capable housewife, exemplary wife and doting mother, who adored her only daughter Jelena, with whom the somewhat older, but respected and wealthy, Mr Vasa fell in love. As was done back then, there was a marriage proposal, then a wedding, and then the young lady fell pregnant. Delicate of build and fragile of health, Jelena struggled to handle the pregnancy, with local doctors shaking their heads with concern. The adoring husband didn’t wonder, but rather collected all the money he had, borrowed the rest, and went with his young wife to a famous doctor in Vienna who rescued both mother and child. The good news quickly reached the Serbian town, where a happy and grateful mother-in-law prepared a new dessert for her son-in-law and named it after him. Her name has not been memorialised, but she did pay the sweetest homage to her noble son-in-lawVasa, and left us with the delightful taste of a walnut cake, a layer of lling and thick white snowmade from egg whites. “as soft as the soul and as yellow as chicken” quickly spread to Serbia. Curious women eager for novel ideas adopted this simple eggbased cake. The secret to the then unprecedented lightness and airiness of the dough was in fresh eggs and the strong hands of the cook, who had to whisk them for a long time and persistently, while adding sugar and our. Patišpanj has been popular domestically for so long in Serbia that it is sometimes referred to as the ancient Serbian cake. It was particularly popular in places inWestern Serbia, where it was made to celebrate every occasion. When a baby is born and baptised, when a young man heads o to join the military or when he is to get married, when loved ones are being sent o to live elsewhere in the world and, of course, for Christmas, patišpanj is always prepared, set on the table or brought as a gift. PATIŠPANJ SPONGECAKE: ASSOFTASTHESOUL, ASYELLOWASCHICKEN VASA’S CAKE: THANKS, DEAR SON IN LAW istock / cujo19 Goran Srdanov
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