58 | Pjer Karden » Pierre Cardin MODA / FASHION Osim nesputane mašte, imao je talenta i za biznis. Kad je postavio kuću visoke mode na noge, vrlo brzo se okrenuo unosnijem izvoru prihoda, promovisao je dizajnersku konfekciju, odnosno modele dostupnije širemkrugu ljudi. Ne zaboravite da je pedesetih godina to bilo novo i hrabro, mogli bismo reći revolucionarno. Njegov brend našao se na skoro svakoj stvari koja je donosila novac, od nameštaja, aksesoara, cigareta, hrane. Osvojio je svet, kako je jednom sam izjavio. Inovator, neustrašivi kreator, avangardan, prvi je prikazaomodnu kolekcijuna Crvenomtrgu uMoskvi 1991, osvojio tržište Kine i Japana. Među prvima je koji su 1994. svoju kolekciju predstavili samo uskom krugu klijenata i novinara. I letimičan pregled njegovog stvaralaštva podseća nas da je umodi sve već viđeno i da je budućnost unovimmaterijalima, 3Dštampačima i dekonstrukciji. A nama ostaje Pjer Karden kao izvor neiscrpne inspiracije… F R ENCH CHARM , I TA L I AN EXT R AVAGANCE The geometrical perfection of PierreCardin This celebrated French designer passed away at the age of 98, leaving us a legacy of designs inspired by geometrical shapes, futurism, a hint of Japan and most of all his passion for space travel It seems that Pierre Cardin entered the world of high fashion in the 1950s just to shake it up. Different, fearless, avant-garde, with a view to the future, he created designs for times yet to come, while at the same time he was accepted in the period during which he created. Obsessed with circles, triangles and squares, he created pieces that paid no attention to silhouettes. Today we call such pieces bulky, oversized or sculptural, while he simply called them geometric. It was precisely this undermining of the female silhouette that made him the creator of the unisex style that has become fully accepted today. However, his approach didn‘t play with themixing of gender roles, rather it was based on designs that simply didn‘t acknowledge the silhouette. Unlike Jean-Paul Gaultier, you won‘t see a man in a skirt with his designs. He mastered the skill of tailoring women‘s suits during childhood, so he continued his career in fashion despite having started his studies in architecture. He began his career in the studioof renowneddesignerElsa Schiaparelli, via the Dior fashion house, where he quickly advanced fromthe positionof chief tailor todesigner, only to gainhis own fashion house after creating 30 costumes for the Venice Carnival. And the rest is history. His first Model u futurističkom duhu koji je obeležio Kardenovu karijeru A design with the futuristic spirit that marked Cardin’s career
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