Decembar 2021

Belgrade » Beograd | 67 VLADIMIR KECMANOVIĆ PISAC / WRITER PRE GOTOVO 90 GODINA U BEOGRADU SU SE upoznali moji baba i deda. Dakle – da nije bilo Beograda, ne bi bilo ni mene. Sedamdeset godina pošto su se baba i deda upoznali, u Beogradu se rodila moja ćerka. Beograd je najveći srpski grad, a ja sam Srbin. Čak i da nije lep, a jeste, te tri činjenice bi bile dovoljne da ga volim. A pošto je lep, navešću neke od detalja koji ga čine lepim i koji teraju na ljubav. VolimBeograd zato što je dovoljno velik da u njemu ne moraš prečesto da srećeš ljude koje da sretneš ne želiš, a ne toliko ogroman da ne sretneš ljude koje je trebalo, a da toga nisi bio svestan. Volim Beograd zato što ima Vračar, Čuburu, Dorćol, Zemun... i što, uprkos građenjuuniformnog i novog, uspeva da održi ponešto od autentičnosti tih svojih delova. Volimga zbogAde Ciganlije, Ušća, AdeHuje i Bele stene, zbog Vodenice pod Kalemegdanom, gde spremaju odličnu rečnu ribu, i zbog ribljih restorana na Dunavu, u Višnjici i s druge strane velike reke, gde je rečna riba jednako dobra. Zbog Bevande u Požarevačkoj, Gušti mora u Radničkoj, gde su morska riba i plodovi mora sveži i ukusni kao na obali Jadranskog ili Egejskog mora, Indijskog okeana ili na Karibima. Volim ga zbog Brda piva na Banovom brdu, gde je pljeskavica bolja nego u Leskovcu. Volim ga zbog Užica na Autokomandi, koje se, do nesrećne korone, nije zatvaralo godinama, pa si tamo mogao da ostaneš duže nego da si otišao u istoimeni grad. Volim ga zbog svitanja na Gardošu, sa kojeg Dunav izgleda kao more, a centar, u daljini, kao druga morska obala. Volim ga zbog splavova na Savi. Volimga zbog ljubavi sa kojom je za njimpatioMioš Crnjanski, pretvorene u večiti Lament. Želimmu da u novoj godini preboli pošast novog doba.Dapostanemoćna tvrđava, nepristupačnazlonamernima, a ostanemeka postelja ljudima dobre volje. IT WAS ALMOST 90 YEARS AGO THAT MY grandparents met in Belgrade. So – if it weren't for Belgrade, I wouldn't even exist. Seventy years after my grandparents met, my daughter was born in Belgrade. Belgrade is the largest Serbian city, and I’ma Serb. Even if it wasn’t beautiful, and it is, those three facts would be enough for me to love it. And given that it is beautiful, I will cite some of the details that make it beautiful and that compel one to love it. I loveBelgrade because it’s big enough that youdon't have to encounter people you don't want to encounter too often, while it's not so huge that you won’t encounter people you needed to without being aware of that. I love Belgrade because it has Vračar, Čubura, Dorćol, Zemun... andbecause, despitebuildinganew, uniformidentity, it still manages to maintain some of the authenticity of those parts. I love it becauseofAdaCiganlija, Ušće, AdaHuja and Bela Stena, because of the Watermill restaurant below Kalemegdan, where theyprepare excellent river fish, and because of the fish restaurants on the Danube, in Višnjica and on the other side of the mighty river, where the river fish is just as good. Because of Bevanda in Požarevacka Street, Gušta mora in Radnička Street, where the sea fish and seafood are as fresh and delicious as they are on the shores of the Adriatic or Aegean, the Indian Ocean or the Caribbean. I love it because of Beer Hill on Banovo brdo, where the ‘pljeskavica’ burgersarebetter thanthose inLeskovac. I love it because of theUžice tavern at theAutokomanda junction, which didn’t close its doors for years, until the unfortunate coronavirus, so you could stay there longer than if you’d gone to the town after which it’s named. I love it because of dawn over Gardoš, from where the Danube resembles a sea and the city centre, in the distance, resembles the other coast of that sea. I love it because of the raft venues on the Sava. I love it because of the love for it that Mioš Crnjanski suffered for, turning it into an eternal Lament. I wish for it to get over the scourge of the new age in the new year. For it to become a mighty fortress, inaccessible to the evil-minded, and to remain a soft bed for people of good will. Neka postanemoćna tvrđava i ostane meka postelja May it become a mighty fortress and remain a soft bed FOTO: Rajko Ristić

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