Februar

U selu Vrmdža, kod Sokobanje, na Rtnju, gde je vreme stalo i koje je donedavno bilo napušteno, pila samnajbolju vodu sa izvora u steni, slušala o čudovištu iz vrmdžanskog jezera, pokušavala da nađemčudesni koren raskovnika, mitske billjke koja otvara svaku bravu i onom ko je nađe omogućava da razume jezik životinja i biljaka. Tamo, u netaknutoj prirodi, srela sam Belgijance, Venecuelanku, Engleza i Beograđane koji su u toj prelepoj divljini zauvek našli sve što im treba. AnaplaniniGoč, iznadVrnjačke Banje, gde je najbolji vazduh u Evropi (nije slučajno da je baš tamo nekada bilo najpoznatije lečilište za plućne bolesti) videla sam šume i proplanke i vozila se kvadovima, kojimamože da se nekoliko sati po netaknutoj prirodi ide i do planine Stolovi, gde pasu jedini divlji konji u Evropi. Bila sam u etno-selu koje je celo napravljeno od kedrovine, kao u nekoj ruskoj bajci... Gde god da odem, uvek pomislim samo jedno – sve dok imamo neko drvo da ga zagrlimo i grmda se iza njega sakrijemo, ne može nam niko ništa. SERBIA IS MUCH BETTER THANALL THE POLITICAL and even literary exaggerations with which it is described. I’m astounded by how little I know it and how many wonderful landscapes, hidden places, interesting stories and great people I’ve found. This is just a tiny part of that treasure... I’ve been travelling for years, and in the last few months - with my showHappy Serbia - I’ve been familiarisingmyselfwithour small and wonderful country as a tourist. I’mdelightedwiththewonderful places and people that I didn’t even know existed. And so it was that, above Banja Vrujci, in the village of Rakari, I visited wondrous tapestry artist Zagorka Stojanović, who has converted her estate into a Weaving Court, a place where you can lay on rugs spread around the yard, learn to weave and listen to a recital by some poet. And all of this happens on a stage in the yard under a giant, ancient linden tree, while you can also buy a modern šajkača cap that she’s used to create a brand. Then a little further away, towards Mionica, in the village of Paštrić, I visited a unique open-air stone museum and saw unusual monoliths with a special geological history, with each of them dedicated to a great of Serbian literature. In the end, I couldn’t imagine this trip to Vrujci without visiting thebirthhouseofDukeŽivojinMišič inStruganik, where onedoesn’t know where to look first – at the beautiful nature, ethnographic artefacts or glorious Serbianhistory. In the village of Vrmdža, near Sokobanja, onMount Rtanj, a place where time has stood still and thatwasabandoneduntil recently, I drank the best water froma spring flowing out of rock, listened to tales about the monster from Lake Vrmdža, tried to find the miraculous root of the raskovnik, amythical plant that opens every lock and enables whoever finds it to understand the languages of animals and plants. There, in pristine nature, I encounteredBelgians,Venezuelans, EnglishmenandBelgraderswho’ve found everything they’ll ever need in that beautiful wilderness. And on the mountain of Goč, above Vrnjačka Banja, which has the best air in Europe, (it is no coincidence that themost renowned healthresort for lungdiseasesused to be here), I saw forests and clearings and drove quads, which one can drive for several hours throughuntouchednature all theway to Stolovi mountain, where the only wild horses left in Europe graze. I was in an ethno village made entirely of cedarwood, like something out of a Russian fairy tale ... And I always think of just one thing wherever I go – as long as we have a tree to hug and a bush to hide behind, no one can do us any harm. Sve dok imamo neko drvo da ga zagrlimo i grm da se iza njega sakrijemo, ne može nam niko ništa / As long as we have a tree to hug and a bush to hide behind, no one can do us any harm Frommy perspective » Iz mog ugla | 89

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